Stewed Dried Fruit Redux

I have a gastronomic fascination with stewed, dried fruit — what my grandmother called kumput (which she made with mostly prunes and sometimes dried apricots).

I’ve written a sort of love letter to this iconic, Ashkenazi Jewish dish.

I’ve played with the recipe and made several different versions.

I like them all.

The recipe below has become my favorite. The sweet white wine makes a difference for sure, and also the larger pieces of crystallized ginger (some of my recipes include chopped crystallized ginger).

This isn’t at all like my grandma’s version and yet I think of her every time I made any version of this recipe. She was the inspiration, after all.

STEWED DRIED FRUIT with GINGER

• 1-1/2 cups water 

• 1-1/2 cups sweet white wine

• 1 cup orange juice

• 1/4 cup maple syrup or honey

• 1 3” vanilla bean split open

• 1 2” piece cinnamon stick

• 8 whole cloves

• 6 cardamom pods, optional

• 1/4 cup crystallized ginger pieces

• 8 whole dried figs

• 8 pitted Medjool dates

• 1 cup cut up dried apricots, peaches or nectarines

• 10-12 prunes

• 1/2 cup raisins or dried cranberries or cherries

Place the water, wine, juice, maple syrup, vanilla bean, cinnamon stick, cloves and optional cardamom pods in a saucepan large enough to hold all the dried fruit. Bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the fruit and simmer another 20-25 minutes or until the fruit is soft. Let the fruit cool in the pan. Discard the cinnamon stick and vanilla bean. Let cool. Serve with the poaching liquid. 

Makes 8 servings

Moroccan-Spiced Vegetable Kugel

Back in September I posted a recipe for a dish (Couscous with Seven Vegetables) that is traditional on Rosh Hashanah among the Jews of North Africa. We love the dish so much that I made it several times, changing the spices a bit each time. Then, one time, I decided to use the same vegetables and seasonings but instead of serving them over couscous, mix them into a kugel.

It worked perfectly!

Of course the texture of kugel vs braised vegetables over couscous is quite different. But the flavors are reminiscent of each other and just as delicious, either way.

This is a good side dish for Thanksgiving. First, it goes so well with turkey. It’s a good choice for any vegetarians who might be at your table. and also, you can make it in advance

Moroccan-Spiced Vegetable Kugel 

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 small onion, sliced

• 1 clove garlic, finely chopped

• 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh ginger

• 1 carrot, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices

• 1 medium tomato, cut into chunks

• 1 small parsnip, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch slices, optional

• 1/2 cup cut up bite sized butternut squash

• 1/2 teaspoon ras al hanout (or use 1/4 teaspoon harissa plus 1/8 teaspoon each of ground ginger, turmeric and cinnamon)

• 3/4 cup vegetable stock

• 1 cup diced zucchini

• 1/4 red bell pepper, cut into bite sized chunks

• 1/2 cup raisins

• 1/2 cup canned chickpeas, rinsed and drained

• Salt to taste

• 12 ounces egg noodles

• 3 eggs

Preheat the oven to 375F. Heat the olive oil in sautepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, for about 4 minutes or until softened and beginning to brown. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for a minute. Add the carrot, tomato, parsnip and squash and stir the ingredients. Stir in the ras al hanout. Add the stock, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium low and cook for about 15 minutes. Add the zucchini, bell pepper, raisins and chickpeas. Cook for about 10 minutes more, or until vegetables are tender. Add salt to taste. Cook the noodles according to the manufacturer’s directions. Spoon the vegetables and pan fluids into the noodles and mix to distribute the ingredients evenly. Beat the eggs and mix them in. Place inside a baking dish and bake for about 35-40 minutes or until the top is crispy.

Makes 4 dinner servings, 8 side dish servings

Honey-Balsamic Glazed Carrots

Need a last minute side dish for Rosh Hashanah? Carrots are traditional for the holiday and few recipes are as easy as this one.

Bonus: set them up ahead and cook just before you need them.

Best of all: they are exceedingly delicious!

Honey-Balsamic Glazed Carrots

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 tablespoons honey

• 2 tablespoons Balsamic vinegar

• 1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices

• 1 large clove garlic, finely chopped

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives (or use the green part of scallion)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the olive oil, honey and Balsamic vinegar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Cook briefly, just long enough for the honey to soften and become easy to pour. Set aside. Pace the carrots and garlic on the parchment lined cookie sheet. Pour the honey mixture on top and toss the carrots to coat all the pieces. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Roast for about 30 minutes, tossing the ingredients 2-3 times during that time, or until the carrots are lightly browned and tender. Spoon the carrots onto a serving dish and sprinkle with chives.

Makes 4 servings

Brisket with BBQ Glaze

I was never a big brisket fan. Soft, wet, brown meat just isn’t my thing. My mother, who was a very good cook, and every other woman in the family, served the meat with pan juices and overcooked onions and carrots.

It was one of the only recipes of my Mom’s that I didn’t like.

So when it was my turn as woman of the house this was not a dish I ever cooked for the holidays.

Then my sons-in-law came along and wanted to know “where’s the brisket?”

I had to find a way that satisfied the whole crew.

After a while I discovered Texas style barbecued brisket: tender meat glazed with thick, tangy sauce and crispy ends and outsides. It was a transformative moment, gastronomically speaking

I wish my Mom was here to try it!

Brisket is expensive, so I don’t make it often, but when I do I always pre-cook it to tenderness this way, then glaze it with barbecue sauce (instructions for when to do what are in that post too).

This year, this is the sauce I am using:

Texas Style Brisket

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 large onion, finely chopped

• 1 medium clove garlic, chopped

• 1 teaspoon finely chopped chili pepper

• 2 cups ketchup

• 1/2 cup apricot jam

• 1/2 cup orange juice

• 1/4 cup honey or maple syrup

• 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar

• 1/2 cup brown sugar

• pinch of ground cloves

• pinch or two of freshly grated nutmeg

Pour the olive oil into a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for about 2 minutes or until slightly softened. Add the garlic and chili pepper and cook briefly. Add the ketchup, jam, orange juice, honey or maple syrup, apple cider vinegar, brown sugar, cloves and nutmeg and stir to blend them. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce heat to simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring frequently, for about 15 minutes or until thick.

Makes about 2-1/2 cups

Israeli Couscous with Seven Vegetables

It isn’t my Ashkenazi family tradition, but among North African Jews, and particularly Moroccan Jews, there’s a fabulous dish served on Rosh Hashanah: Couscous with Seven Vegetables.

I’ve cooked versions of this dish several times mostly because it sounded so delicious and also because I am always on the lookout for a good, festive and filling vegetarian entree.

This one satisfies in every way possible.

This is the recipe we like best: I used Israeli couscous rather than the traditional tiny grains of Moroccan couscous because my family likes it better. Also, I used Harissa paste (because I always have some) but you can substitute red pepper flakes or a pinch or two of cayenne pepper (or leave it out if you don’t want any pepper). My husband said he would like more raisins. Up to you…..

Israeli Couscous with Seven Vegetables 

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 large onion (preferably a sweet variety such as Vidalia), sliced

• 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

• 1 clove garlic, finely chopped

• 4 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices

• 2 medium tomatoes, cut into chunks

• 1 parsnip, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch slices

• 1 cup cut up bite sized butternut squash

• 1/2 teaspoon harissa paste

• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• 2-1/2 cups vegetable stock

• 1/2 large red bell pepper, cut into bite sized chunks

• 1 small zucchini, cut into bite sized chunks

• 1 cup raisins

• 1 cup canned chickpeas, rinsed and drained

• Salt to taste

• 1-1/2 cups Israeli couscous

Heat the olive oil in saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, for about 5-6 minutes or until softened and beginning to brown. Add the ginger and garlic and cook for 1-2 minutes. Add the carrots, tomatoes, parsnip and squash and stir the ingredients. Stir in the harissa, turmeric and cinnamon. Add the stock, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium low and cook for about 15 minutes. Add the bell pepper, zucchini, raisins and chickpeas. Cook for about 10 minutes more, or until vegetables are tender. Add salt to taste. Cook the couscous according to the manufacturer’s directions. Spoon the couscous on large serving platter. Spoon the vegetables and pan fluids over the couscous.

Makes 4 dinner servings, 8 side dish ervings

Rhubarb Chutney

Rhubarb has a special place in my life. My mother made it often and served it as a side dish the way most other mothers I knew served apple sauce. She used fresh rhubarb stalks when they were in season and boxes of frozen rhubarb during the rest of the year.

Everyone in my family loved it. My mother didn’t use as much sugar as most recipes said to do because we loved it tart and tangy. I make it the same way she did: mix 1-1/2 pounds of sliced rhubarb with 3/4 cup sugar and cook over medium heat, covered, for about 10 minutes. Remove the cover and cook for another 15 minutes. That’s it!

Recently I’ve also been making rhubarb chutney because its a great favorite at our house. It’s such a good accompaniment to grilled meats — chicken, beef, lamb — all of it, and I’ve also served it with salmon.

Rhubarb season is almost over so make this one while you still can! 

You can serve it with whatever you may be grilling outdoors over Labor Day weekend. Or with a classic roasted chicken for Shabbat or Rosh Hashanah brisket. It will keep in the fridge for awhile too, so you can save some for Thanksgiving.

Or give some away — it’s a delicious, edible gift!

Rhubarb Chutney

• 1 pound rhubarb, cut into 1/2-inch slices

• 1 cup sugar

• 1/3 cup apple cider vinegar

• 1 2-inch cinnamon stick

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger

• 6 whole cloves

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 2 large cloves garlic, chopped

• 1 cup golden raisins

Combine the rhubarb, sugar, cider vinegar, cinnamon stick, ginger, cloves, onion, garlic and raisins in a large stainless steel or enamel saucepan. Mix the ingredients and cook over high heat. When the liquid in the pan starts to bubble, lower the heat to medium and cook for about 15 minutes or until the raisins are tender and the sauce is slightly thickened. Refrigerate for at least one hour.

Makes about 3 cups

Crusted Coffee Cake

We used to have a big gathering for break-the-fast. But this year there’s only about dozen us. Still, we’ll still feast on Mujadarah and Spinach Pie, egg salad, arugula salad, kugel and cheese. Hummus and marinated avocado. Zimsterne cookies.

Tradition.

This year I’m adding a simple dessert: coffee cake with a crusty-streusel top that reminds me of the Drakes cake I used to love when I was a kid.

Crusted Coffee Cake

Crust:

• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

• 1/2 cup brown sugar

• 3/4 teaspoon cinnamon

• 3 tablespoons butter, cut into chunks

• 1 cup chopped almonds or hazelnuts

If using a food processor, place the flour, brown sugar, cinnamon and butter into the workbowl and process until crumbly. Add the nuts and process on pulse a few times until the nuts are smaller and well combined with the dry ingredients. If using a bowl, combine all the dry ingredients, mix, add the butter and work the butter into the dry ingredients with your fingers until the mixture looks crumbly. Set aside.

cake:

• crust

• 2/3 cup butter

• 2 cups all-purpose flour

• 1 teaspoon baking powder

• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

• 3/4 cup brown sugar

• 2 large eggs

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

• 1 cup sour cream (or plain, Greek style yogurt)

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Lightly grease a 9” springform pan. Make the crust. Melt the butter and set it aside to cool. Combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a bowl and set aside. In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the cooled butter and brown sugar for 1-2 minutes or until smooth and well combined. Add the eggs and vanilla extract and beat for 1-2 minutes. Add the sour cream and beat for 2-3 minutes or until well blended and and light in color. Add the dry ingredients and beat for 1-2 minutes or until well blended. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan. Cover the top with the crust mixture. Bake for 60-70 minutes or until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Remove from the oven and let cool for 15 minutes. Remove the side of the springform pan.

Makes 8-12 servings

Tzimmes Chicken

 Not everyone in my family likes brisket, so on Rosh Hashanah I make a second main course. This year I had planned on Baked Chicken with Fig-Orange Balsamic Sauce, the most popular dish on my website. But I’ve not been able to get fresh figs.

Wow, that was a short fig season!

So, I’m going to make this Tzimmes Chicken, which is basically braised/roasted chicken plus some of the ingredients I use to make one of my modern meatless tzimmes recipes.

Although the Yiddish word tzimmes means “a big fuss,”this recipe certainly isn’t! It’s not complicated, it’s easy to cook and you can make it ahead and reheat.

Fyi, a few years ago this recipe appeared in The Jewish Week Food & Wine, but the recipes on their website are no longer be available.

Shanah Tovah.

ROASTED TZIMMES CHICKEN

• 3 1/2 to 4-pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces

• 3 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1 medium onion, sliced

• 2 cloves garlic, chopped

• 16-18 dried apricots

• 12 large Medjool dates, pitted

• 1 teaspoon grated fresh orange peel

• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary

• 3 tablespoons Balsamic vinegar

• 2 tablespoons honey

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Place a large oven-proof sauté pan in the oven (cast iron if you have it) for 15 minutes. Dry the chicken using paper towels. Rub one tablespoon of the olive oil over the pieces and season to taste with salt and pepper. Place the chicken pieces, skin down for breasts and thighs in the hot pan and place the pan in the oven. Roast for 10 minutes. While the chicken is roasting, combine the onion, garlic, apricots, dates, orange peel, rosemary, Balsamic vinegar, honey and the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a bowl. Toss the ingredients to distribute them evenly. After the initial 10 minutes of roasting, turn the chicken pieces. The skin should be browned, if not, return to the oven for another 3-4 minutes. Scatter the fruit mixture on top of and between the chicken pieces. Return the pan to the oven. Turn the heat to 350 degrees. Roast for another 20 minutes or until chicken is cooked through (a meat thermometer will read 160 degrees). Baste 2-3 times during roasting. Let rest for about 10 minutes before serving.

Makes 4-6 servings

Roasted Pepper Soup

Please don’t think I’m crazy but this year, instead of serving chicken soup for Rosh Hashanah, I’m making this Roasted Red Pepper soup.

First, it’s easy and I can make it a few days in advance. Also, it’s pretty enough for a festive holiday table and the colors match those of autumn, don’t you think?

Most of all, I’ve made this many times and always, always everyone wants seconds. It’s a taste winner.

ROASTED PEPPER SOUP

• 4 large bell peppers (red, orange and/or yellow)

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 5-6 scallions, chopped

• 1 large clove garlic, chopped

• 1 teaspoon chopped jalapeno, serrano or habanero chili pepper

• 2 carrots or parsnips, chopped

• 1 large all-purpose potato, peeled and chopped

• 4 cups vegetable stock

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

• 1 teaspoon salt or to taste

Preheat the broiler. Place the peppers under the broiler, about 4-6" away from the heat. Broil for 2-3 minutes, until the skin has blistered. Turn the peppers and repeat this process until the entire surface is blistered and lightly charred. Remove the peppers and wrap them in foil or place them in a paper bag. Let rest at least 10 minutes. Remove the peppers, peel off the skin and discard the stem and the seeds. Cut the peppers into pieces and set aside. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the scallion, garlic and chili pepper and cook briefly. Add the carrot and potato and cook, stirring occasionally for 3-4 minutes. Add the peppers, stock and basil. Season to taste with salt. Bring the mixture to a boil, lower the heat and cook at a simmer for 30 minutes. Puree in a food processor or blender.

Makes 6 servings

Roasted Eggplant, Tomato and Mushroom Gratin

Because of allergies, we don’t have a traditional smoked-fish feast at our annual Yom Kippur break-the-fast. It’s always a vegetarian/dairy meal. I always make mujadarah, my friend Susan always brings her most fabulous kugel in the world and there’s always a salad — usually tomato, also egg salad.

The rest changes from time to time. Once I served spinach gnocchi. Often, spinach pie.

This year I am serving this Eggplant, Tomato and Mushroom Gratin. I’ve made it several times this summer because I planted eggplants and tomatoes in my garden and there was a bounty!

So, with the last of my crop — this wonderful dish. It’s perfect for the occasion. I can make it two days ahead. It’s suitable for any dairy meal but looks festive enough for the holiday.

Roasted Eggplant, Tomato, Mushroom Gratin

•  1 medium eggplant

• 4 tablespoons olive oil

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 2-3 tomatoes, sliced (or about 2 dozen cherry tomatoes cut in half)

• 4-6 ounces mushrooms, sliced

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 1 cup grated Mozzarella cheese

• 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese 

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cut the eggplant into slices about 3/8- inch thick. Brush the slices lightly, using about 3-4 tablespoons of the olive oil. Place the slices on a baking sheet and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for 16-18 minutes or until the eggplant is softened and slightly browned, turning the slices once. Reduce the oven heat to 375 degrees. Use any remaining olive oil to place a film of oil in a baking dish and place the eggplant slices in the baking dish. Cover with the tomato slices and mushrooms. Scatter the top with the basil, parsley, Mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses. Bake for about 25 minutes or until top is golden brown. 

Makes 4-6 servings