Hamburger with vegan Never Better Foods “cheddar" cheese”
Braised Breast of Veal
Climate change brings warmer winters, that’s for sure. But that doesn’t mean we can’t still enjoy the kind of rich, slow-cooked, hearty stew that we wanted when it snowed or it was bitterly cold outside!
I’ve made this dish using large cubes of veal but like it best with a whole breast (so I can gnaw on the bones).
BRAISED BREAST OF VEAL
one breast of veal, about 3-1/2 pounds
all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 large carrots, peeled and cut into chunks
2 large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
2 medium onions, peeled and cut into chunks
1 large clove garlic, chopped
1 cup white wine
2-3 sprigs fresh rosemary (or 2 teaspoons dried rosemary)
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Rinse and dry the veal and press the meat into the flour to lightly coat the entire surface. Heat the vegetable oil in a large ovenproof saute pan or casserole over medium heat, add the meat and cook for about 4 minutes per side to brown the outside. Remove the meat to a plate and set aside. Add the carrots, potatoes and onions to the pan and cook for 3-4 minutes to cook them slightly. Add the garlic and cook briefly. Return the meat to the pan, moving the vegetables around so they sit on top of and around the meat. Pour in the wine. Place the rosemary sprigs in the pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Bring the liquid to a simmer. Cover the pan and place in an oven. Turn the heat to 275F OR keep the casserole on the cooktop, lower the heat and cook at a simmer for about 2 hours or until very tender.
Makes 4 servings
Pot Roast for the Win
It’s cold outside.
Also, the world is terrifyingly unstable.
I’m not in my usual mood of experimenting with new recipes — at least not for dinner — so we’ve been eating foods that are easy, familiar and comforting.
Like this chuck roast.
CHUCK POT ROAST
2 tablespoons olive oil
3-4 pound chuck roast
4-6 carrots, peeled and cut into chunks
12-16 baby potatoes
2 medium onions, sliced
6-8 plum tomatoes, cut up
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 cup red wine
1 cup beef broth
salt and freshly ground black pepper
3-4 sprigs fresh thyme
Preheat the oven to 250F. Heat the olive oil in a large oven-proof casserole. Sear the meat surface on both sides (about 2-3 minutes per side) using heat heat on a cooktop. Remove the pan from the cooktop. Scatter the carrots, potatoes, onions, tomatoes and garlic over and around the meat. Pour in the wine and broth. Sprinkle the ingredients with salt and pepper. Place the thyme sprigs on top. Cover the casserole. Place in the oven. Cook for about 4 hours or until the meat is tender.
Makes 4-6 servings
Brisket with BBQ Glaze
I was never a big brisket fan. Soft, wet, brown meat just isn’t my thing. My mother, who was a very good cook, and every other woman in the family, served the meat with pan juices and overcooked onions and carrots.
It was one of the only recipes of my Mom’s that I didn’t like.
So when it was my turn as woman of the house this was not a dish I ever cooked for the holidays.
Then my sons-in-law came along and wanted to know “where’s the brisket?”
I had to find a way that satisfied the whole crew.
After a while I discovered Texas style barbecued brisket: tender meat glazed with thick, tangy sauce and crispy ends and outsides. It was a transformative moment, gastronomically speaking
I wish my Mom was here to try it!
Brisket is expensive, so I don’t make it often, but when I do I always pre-cook it to tenderness this way, then glaze it with barbecue sauce (instructions for when to do what are in that post too).
This year, this is the sauce I am using:
Texas Style Brisket
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 medium clove garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon finely chopped chili pepper
2 cups ketchup
1/2 cup apricot jam
1/2 cup orange juice
1/4 cup honey or maple syrup
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup brown sugar
pinch of ground cloves
pinch or two of freshly grated nutmeg
Pour the olive oil into a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for about 2 minutes or until slightly softened. Add the garlic and chili pepper and cook briefly. Add the ketchup, jam, orange juice, honey or maple syrup, apple cider vinegar, brown sugar, cloves and nutmeg and stir to blend them. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce heat to simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring frequently, for about 15 minutes or until thick.
Makes about 2-1/2 cups
Sweet and Sour Pot Roast
There are two truths about pot roast.
First, it’s not glamorous or gorgeous.
Second, it is delicious and satisfying.
So, with that in mind, please remember that the photo may not be an artist’s dream, but the food in it is always devoured because the recipe is big winner. And, while pot roast is ideal when the weather is cold or dreary, it’s so satisfying that it will do in just about any weather.
Sweet and Sour Pot Roast
3-4 tablespoons all purpose flour
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 pound chuck roast
4 tablespoons vegetable oil (I use avocado oil)
2 medium onions, sliced
2 large cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger
1 1-pound 12-ounce can tomatoes (including liquid)
1/4 cup brown sugar
3 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce (I use vegetarian Worcestershire sauce)
4-5 carrots, peeled and cut into chunks
2-3 medium all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
In a dish, mix the flour with some salt and pepper. Dredge the beef in the flour to coat it on all sides. Pour 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the meat and cook, turning the meat occasionally, for 6-8 minutes, to brown the surface. Remove the meat and set it aside. Add the remaining vegetable oil to the pan. Add the onions, garlic and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, for 2-3 minutes. Add the tomatoes (and liquid), brown sugar, cider vinegar and Worcestershire sauce. Stir to blend the ingredients. Return the meat to the pan. Add the carrots and potatoes. Cover the pan and place it in the oven. Turn the heat to 275F. Cook for about 3 hours or until the meat is tender.
Makes 6 servings
Osso Buco without Tomatoes
I love a cooking challenge. Whether it’s because a meal needs to be kosher or because someone is allergic to walnuts or doesn’t eat meat or hates potatoes, I am up for the task.
So, it was interesting for me to come up with this year’s new year’s menu when my cousins come. They will be houseguests for several days.
Our New Year’s eve day (which also includes my brother and sister-in-law) starts early and is all about hors d’oeuvres - groups of nibbles several hours apart. No actual “dinner.”
First up: almond crusted chicken nuggets, hot dog en croute, rumaki — maybe more.
Later: smoked salmon and avocado toasts, cheese gougeres, Romanian cheese turnovers, hummus.
and then dessert in the late evening. Probably Roasted Pears with Orange-Maple Sauce or Chocolate Pudding (in a pie crust). Or both.
There’s enough variety to assure everyone will be happy.
But in between days I need to consider food restrictions including: no tomatoes.
We all love Osso Buco, but classic recipes, including mine, are loaded with tomatoes. So I spent the last month making recipe after recipe — no tomatoes. All were absolutely delicious. I made versions with red wine or white, beef stock or chicken; some with a strip of lemon peel, some without, some with mushrooms.
This is the one I will be serving — note that I usually serve Osso Buco on top of mamaliga, but corn meal is also verboten, hence, the egg noodles.
Happy new year everyone.
Osso Buco (Sans tomatoes)
4 pieces veal shank
3-4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
6 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil, approximately
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
1-2 stalks celery, chopped
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or rosemary
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 strip lemon peel, about 2-inches long
1 cup red wine
1 cup beef stock
Coat each piece of veal with some flour. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in an ovenproof saute pan or casserole over medium heat. Cook the coated veal shanks for 6-7 minutes, or until lightly browned on each side. Add 1-2 tablespoons more oil as needed to prevent sticking. Remove the shanks to a dish and set aside. Add 2 more tablespoons olive oil to the pan. Add the carrots, celery and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes, or until lightly softened. Add the garlic and mix it in. Return the shanks to the pan and spoon the vegetables on top. Sprinkle with the parsley, thyme and salt and pepper to taste. Add the lemon peel. Pour in the wine and stock. Bring the liquid to a simmer. Cover the pan. Remove the casserole to the oven. Set the temperature to 325 degrees. Cook for about 1-1/2 to 2 hours or until the meat is soft. Serve the shanks with the pan fluids and vegetables.
Makes 4 servings
Turkey Chili
Turkey Chili
When the weather starts to get cold I make hot, filling food. Like chili. I have lots of recipes because the basics are the same but the the recipe is so versatile that I can change it depending on my mood and on what ingredients I have.
For example:
the beans: red kidney, white cannelini, black beans are all fine — or any other. Dried and reconstituted or canned.
I usually choose ground turkey but you can use any ground meat (or chopped meat); best are: beef, veal or poultry. But you can make it meatless: try firm tofu or just use more beans, maybe two kinds.
make it spicier with chopped fresh chili pepper or less spicy with a mild chili powder
serve it with chips or mashed avocado (or sour cream for meatless)
Have it your way. It’s all good. Also — it lasts, so you can make it 2-3 days ahead and keep it in the fridge.
Note: a version of this recipe was originally published in The Jewish Week Food & Wine.
Turkey Chili
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
2 large cloves garlic, chopped
1 serrano (or other hot) pepper, deseeded and chopped, optional
16-20 ounces ground turkey
28 ounce can tomatoes, coarsely chopped, undrained
1/4 cup tomato paste
1/2 cup water or vegetable stock
2 teaspoons chili powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
15-19 ounce can white beans, drained
Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and serrano pepper and cook briefly. Add the turkey and cook, stirring to break up the pieces, for 3-5 minutes, until the meat has turned color. Add the tomatoes with their juices, tomato paste, water, chili powder, cumin, oregano and salt and pepper to taste. Cover the pan and simmer for 1-1/2 hours. Stir in the beans. Cook uncovered for 30 minutes.
Makes 4 servings
Sweet-Sour Short Ribs
When it came to recipes, my mother always said “why change a winner?!” And I agree with her — sometimes. There are some recipes that I never change: my mother’s apple pie, my grandma’s challah, almond chicken nugget hors d’oeuvres and a few others. They’re too good to mess with.
But most of the time I tinker with ingredients, change seasonings, patchke a little. Or a lot.
Most of the time it works out delightfully.
Like the other day, when I went to make short ribs. I thought I had the appropriate wine, but I didn’t. I wasn’t in the mood for beer. Stock — to me it’s just a so-so flavor for short ribs, especially when you want them sweet-and-sour.
I did have a large container of pineapple juice though, so I decided on that!
As it turns out, pineapple juice contributes both sweet AND sour.
The short ribs were perfect.
I had added fresh ginger to the dish to give it a flash of citrusy-heat. The second time I made the recipe I used chili pepper instead of ginger. The dish was equally good.
My husband said both versions, similar in taste (but one slightly spicier) were the best short ribs he ever tasted.
Sweet-Sour Short Ribs
4 pounds boneless short ribs
all-purpose flour
5-6 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 large onions, peeled and sliced
2 large cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger (or one teaspoon chopped fresh chili pepper)
1 cup bottled chili sauce
1 cup pineapple juice
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
1/4 cup honey
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Coat the meat with a film of flour. Heat 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large pan or Dutch oven and cook the meat for 8-10 minutes, turning the pieces occasionally, or until they are lightly browned. Add 1-2 tablespoons more vegetable oil to the pan as needed to prevent sticking. Remove the meat and set it aside. Add 1-2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil to the pan. Add the onions, garlic and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5-6 minutes, or until the vegetables have softened slightly. Return the meat to the pan. Pour in the chili sauce, pineapple juice, apple cider vinegar and honey, stir to combine the ingredients, and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Turn the heat to low, cover the pan and cook for 3-1/2 to 4 hours or until the meat is very tender.
Makes 6-8 servings
Passover Shepherd's Pie with Matzo Crust
I always try to make our Seder meals as festive as possible. Most years (sans pandemic) I roast a turkey and braise a big brisket. Lots of vegetable side dishes. Sometimes the second night is vegetarian. My grandma’s honey-soaked chremslach are a must. Ditto the Manischewitz concord grape wine (along with some lovelier selections).
But during the week — not so much. It’s regular meals. So, maybe meatloaf (with matzo meal substituting for bread crumbs). Or chicken cutlets crusted with coconut. Leftover turkey made into salad. Like that.
From time to time I make this “Shepherd’s Pie” — which really isn’t Shepherd’s Pie because there’s no potato crust. I include the potatoes in the meat mix and gave it a matzo crust. That crust is a crunchy, wonderful thing together with the softer, more tender inside ingredients.
Passover Shepherd’s Pie with Matzo Crust
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 large clove garlic, chopped
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
1 large Yukon Gold or other all-purpose potato, peeled and chopped
1-1/2 pounds ground meat
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon fresh thyme, optional (or use 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme)(or use 1-2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley)
2 tablespoons potato starch
1 cup stock (beef, chicken or vegetable)
2 matzot
1 egg, beaten (or use olive oil)
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Heat the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, carrots and potato and cook, stirring frequently, for 7-8 minutes, or until softened and beginning to brown. Add the meat, salt, pepper and thyme and continue to cook and stir, breaking up the meat into small pieces, for another 5-6 minutes or until the meat has cooked through. Add the potato starch and stir it into the meat mixture. Pour in the stock and cook, stirring, until the sauce has thickened (about one minute). Spoon the mixture into a rectangular baking dish. Soak the matzot briefly to soften them slightly, then place them on paper toweling and press any excess water from them. Place the soaked matzot on top of the meat. Brush the surface with the beaten egg. Bake for about 25 minutes or until the top is crispy and browned.
Makes 4-6 servings
Short Ribs with Barbecue Gravy
Lots of people find January a big disappointment. It can be cold and dreary and sometimes seems like a letdown after months of holidays and celebrating.
But the food is good.
I like to call January cuisine. Filling, nourishing, comforting stuff.
Like short ribs.
Short Ribs with Barbecue Sauce
- 5-6 pounds beef short ribs
- 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
- 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
- 2 medium onions, sliced
- 2 garlic cloves, chopped
- 1 teaspoon finely chopped chile pepper
- 2 carrots, peeled and cut into chunks
- 2 stalks celery, peeled and cut into chunks
- 1 cup ketchup
- 1 cup beef stock
- 1 cup beer or ale
- 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
- 2 teaspoons soy sauce
- 3 tablespoons brown sugar
- 2-3 thyme sprigs (or 1 teaspoon dried thyme)
- 1 bay leaf
- salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Dry the surface of the meat with paper towels. Heat the vegetable oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Working in batches, cook the meat, turning the pieces to brown them, for 4-5 minutes or until lightly browned. (If the oil seems too dark, discard it, wipe the pan and add 2 fresh tablespoons vegetable oil.) Remove the meat and set it aside. Add the onions, garlic, chili pepper, carrots and celery to the pan and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the ketchup. Pour in the stock, beer, cider vinegar and soy sauce and stir the ingredients. Stir in the brown sugar. Return the meat to the pan and spoon some of the sauce over them. Place the thyme sprigs and bay leaf in the liquid. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Bring the liquid to a boil. Lower the heat, cover the pan and cook at a bare simmer for about 4 hours or until the meat is fork tender (or place in the oven at 225 degrees).
Makes 6-8 servings