Matzo Balls for Passover

The torch has been passed.

For the first time, after decades, I am not hosting Passover. One of my daughters is taking over (next year it will be my other daughter).

It feels weird, sad and thrilling all at the same time. Who knew that last year would be my last?

Everyone says “it’s good!” “it’s time!” And yet …. are we ever really quite ready? Those of us who never minded the preparation, the cooking, the utter exhaustion that leads to our remarkable celebration of Passover?

But I am not giving up completely! I am bringing food.

Of course.

My grandchildren, as grandchildren will do, have told their mother that only my matzo balls will do. And my stuffed cabbage and charoset. And that even when she uses my recipes, it is “not like grandma’s.”

Grand children are the absolute best. And I am so lucky to have my five.

Chag Pesach Sameach everyone. Shalom.

Here is the matzo ball recipe I use. The photo below shows the matzo balls I made yesterday.

MATZO BALLS

• 1 cup matzo meal

• 1 teaspoon salt

• freshly ground black or white pepper to taste

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley or dill, or both, optional

• 4 whole large eggs, slightly beaten

• 1/4 cup melted goose fat, chicken fat, margarine or vegetable oil

• 1/4 cup chicken soup, water or seltzer

In a bowl. combine the matzo meal, salt, pepper and parsley or dill (or both). In another bowl, beat the eggs, melted fat and soup together. Add the egg mixture to the matzo mixture and blend thoroughly. Stir in the liquid. Cover the ingredients and refrigerate for about 30 minutes. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. With wet cold hands shape the matzo mixture into 1-inch balls (you may have to re-wet hands occasionally). Add the matzo balls one by one to the boiling water. Lower the heat so that the water is at a simmer. Cover the pan and cook for at least 50 minutes (do not lift the cover) or until they are tender. Remove the matzo balls from the water. Place into the soup to soak up more flavor.

Makes 14-16

Matzo Polenta

Many years ago I decided to develop a Passover version of polenta — what my grandma called mamaliga — using matzo meal instead of corn meal.

The plain, version was beyond awful. My daughter said it tasted like a box.

But (never one to waste food) I mixed in some golden brown fried onions, celery and mushrooms, let the mixture chill inside a loaf pan, and when it was cold, I cut the loaf into slices and fried them until they were hot and crispy.

Perfection! A delicious side dish during Passover.

MATZO MEAL “POLENTA” CRISPS

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 1 large stalk celery, chopped

• 2 cups chopped mushrooms

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mixed herbs such as dill, basil, rosemary, thyme

• 2 cups vegetable or chicken stock

• 1 cup water

• 1 cup matzo meal

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1/2 cup grated Fontina cheese, optional

• vegetable oil and/or butter for frying

Lightly grease a 9”x5”x3” loaf pan. Heat the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes or until softened. Add the mushrooms, parsley and herbs and and cook for another 3-4 minutes or until all the liquid has evaporated from the pan. Set aside to cool slightly. Bring the stock and water to a boil in a large saucepan. Whisk constantly as you gradually add the matzo meal and cook for about 2-3 minutes or until the mixture is thick. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally for another 3-4 minutes or until the mixture is very thick. Stir in the vegetable mixture and season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix in the cheese of used. Spoon the mixture into the prepared loaf pan. Refrigerate until cold, at least one hour. Unmold the loaf onto a cutting board and cut into 3/4-inch slices. Heat the vegetable oil and/or butter in a saute pan over medium heat. Cook the slices a few at a time, for 2-4 minutes per side, or until crispy. Makes 6-8 servings

Kosher "Cheese burger"

Hamburger with vegan Never Better Foods “cheddar" cheese”

Braised Chicken with Figs and Grapes

I recently bought a whole bunch of dried figs, dates, plums (prunes) and California apricots in preparation for a Tu B’Shevat food demo/class I am doing for Temple Beth El in Stamford, CT on Thursday, January 18th, 2024 (it’s free, so if you’re in the area, give us a call).

Tu B’Shevat is a joyous holiday, a kind of Earth Day, when we celebrate and try to be mindful of our planet and its resources. This was a day I remember my parents donating money to plant trees in Israel.

With its focus on earth’s bounty, the food for this holiday features lots of fruit, including those dried fruits I mentioned. Like this chicken dish, which is braised with apple cider (sometimes I use orange juice or orange-pineapple juice), seasoned with curry and ginger and of course, includes dried figs (though any dried fruit will do!).

braised CHICKEN WITH FIGS AND GRAPES

• 1-3/4 cups apple cider (or use orange or orange-pineapple juice)

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 6 bone-in pieces of chicken

• 1 shallot, chopped (or use a small onion)

• 1-1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh ginger

• 1/2 cup diced dried figs (or use other dried fruit such as prunes, apricots, nectarines or dates)

• 2-1/2 teaspoons curry powder

• 1/4 teaspoon Aleppo pepper (or use 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper)

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1 cup halved fresh grapes

• chopped fresh mint

• cooked bulgur wheat, rice or noodles, optional

Boil the cider for about 5 minutes or until it has reduced to 3/4 cup. Heat the vegetable oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the chicken and cook for 8-10 minutes, or until lightly browned, turning the pieces occasionally. Remove the chicken pieces and set them aside on a plate. Add the shallot, ginger and diced figs to the pan and cook for 1-2 minutes over low-medium heat. Return the chicken to the pan. Sprinkle the ingredients with curry powder, Aleppo pepper and salt and black pepper to taste. Pour in the reduced cider. Turn the pieces of chicken to coat all sides with the pan ingredients. Cover the pan, turn the heat to low and cook for 15 minutes. Add the grapes and cook for an additional 10 minutes or until the chicken is cooked through. Sprinkle with chopped fresh mint. Serve on a bed of cooked bulgur wheat, rice or noodles if desired.

Makes 4-6 servings

Brisket with BBQ Glaze

I was never a big brisket fan. Soft, wet, brown meat just isn’t my thing. My mother, who was a very good cook, and every other woman in the family, served the meat with pan juices and overcooked onions and carrots.

It was one of the only recipes of my Mom’s that I didn’t like.

So when it was my turn as woman of the house this was not a dish I ever cooked for the holidays.

Then my sons-in-law came along and wanted to know “where’s the brisket?”

I had to find a way that satisfied the whole crew.

After a while I discovered Texas style barbecued brisket: tender meat glazed with thick, tangy sauce and crispy ends and outsides. It was a transformative moment, gastronomically speaking

I wish my Mom was here to try it!

Brisket is expensive, so I don’t make it often, but when I do I always pre-cook it to tenderness this way, then glaze it with barbecue sauce (instructions for when to do what are in that post too).

This year, this is the sauce I am using:

Texas Style Brisket

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 large onion, finely chopped

• 1 medium clove garlic, chopped

• 1 teaspoon finely chopped chili pepper

• 2 cups ketchup

• 1/2 cup apricot jam

• 1/2 cup orange juice

• 1/4 cup honey or maple syrup

• 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar

• 1/2 cup brown sugar

• pinch of ground cloves

• pinch or two of freshly grated nutmeg

Pour the olive oil into a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for about 2 minutes or until slightly softened. Add the garlic and chili pepper and cook briefly. Add the ketchup, jam, orange juice, honey or maple syrup, apple cider vinegar, brown sugar, cloves and nutmeg and stir to blend them. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce heat to simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring frequently, for about 15 minutes or until thick.

Makes about 2-1/2 cups

Israeli Couscous with Seven Vegetables

It isn’t my Ashkenazi family tradition, but among North African Jews, and particularly Moroccan Jews, there’s a fabulous dish served on Rosh Hashanah: Couscous with Seven Vegetables.

I’ve cooked versions of this dish several times mostly because it sounded so delicious and also because I am always on the lookout for a good, festive and filling vegetarian entree.

This one satisfies in every way possible.

This is the recipe we like best: I used Israeli couscous rather than the traditional tiny grains of Moroccan couscous because my family likes it better. Also, I used Harissa paste (because I always have some) but you can substitute red pepper flakes or a pinch or two of cayenne pepper (or leave it out if you don’t want any pepper). My husband said he would like more raisins. Up to you…..

Israeli Couscous with Seven Vegetables 

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 large onion (preferably a sweet variety such as Vidalia), sliced

• 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger

• 1 clove garlic, finely chopped

• 4 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch slices

• 2 medium tomatoes, cut into chunks

• 1 parsnip, peeled and cut in 1/2-inch slices

• 1 cup cut up bite sized butternut squash

• 1/2 teaspoon harissa paste

• 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

• 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• 2-1/2 cups vegetable stock

• 1/2 large red bell pepper, cut into bite sized chunks

• 1 small zucchini, cut into bite sized chunks

• 1 cup raisins

• 1 cup canned chickpeas, rinsed and drained

• Salt to taste

• 1-1/2 cups Israeli couscous

Heat the olive oil in saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, for about 5-6 minutes or until softened and beginning to brown. Add the ginger and garlic and cook for 1-2 minutes. Add the carrots, tomatoes, parsnip and squash and stir the ingredients. Stir in the harissa, turmeric and cinnamon. Add the stock, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium low and cook for about 15 minutes. Add the bell pepper, zucchini, raisins and chickpeas. Cook for about 10 minutes more, or until vegetables are tender. Add salt to taste. Cook the couscous according to the manufacturer’s directions. Spoon the couscous on large serving platter. Spoon the vegetables and pan fluids over the couscous.

Makes 4 dinner servings, 8 side dish ervings

Veggie Frittata

When it’s time for a meatless meal I often go for a frittata. It’s quick and easy to cook and, accompanied by a salad and a hunk of bread, is filling enough for dinner.

I’ve made this veggie-cheese frittata many times, using different veggies (about 2 cups worth) and other meltable cheeses (cheddar, havarti, mozzarella) and if I have any, sometimes throw in some crumbled feta, blue or goat cheese.

This is a dish that works no matter what the season, but is especially good in summer when most of us want lighter food. Also — perfect during the Nine Days and for other meatless fast days.

Veggie Frittata

• 1 tablespoon butter

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• 2 tablespoons chopped shallot

• 10-12 grape or cherry tomatoes, cut into pieces

• 3-4 large mushrooms, cleaned and chopped

• 1/2 cup chopped fresh spinach

• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, optional

• 6 large eggs, beaten

• 2 ounces grated Swiss cheese

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to broil. Heat the butter and olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, add the shallot, tomatoes and mushrooms and cook for 3-4 minutes or until the vegetables have softened. Add the spinach and parsley, if used, and cook briefly, until the spinach has wilted slightly. Pour in the eggs and scatter the cheese on top. Sprinkle with salt and pepper if desired. Cook for about 4 minutes, stirring occasionally to allow the liquid egg to get to the bottom, until the eggs are still slightly liquid but nearly cooked. Place the pan under the broiler for 1-2 minutes or until the top is crispy and lightly browned.

Makes 2-3 servings

Classic, Dairy-free Hamantashen

Every year in the few weeks before Purim I look with great anticipation for new variations on hamantashen. I can’t get over the creativity, not to mention how delicious so many of them sound! Halvah hamantashen (Amy Kritzer). Savory gochujang caramel hamantashen (Sharon Matten). A large, all-in-one, easy-to-bake pear-filled puff pastry hamantashen galette (Leah Koenig). Mazal tov to these fabulous women and the culinary magic they spin.

I also love tinkering and experimenting with recipes, creating new riffs on classics and making up recipes out of whole cloth. I’ve been doing this throughout my food-writing career. In fact, speaking of Purim and hamantashen, one year I won a contest run by Soom foods for my Spiced Lamb Phyllo Hamantashen with Lemon-Tahini Sauce.

OTOH sometimes I just want the old thing.

Like this past week, when I decided to bake some hamantashen for Purim and just wanted plain old apricot.

How about both? Why not!

Have fun baking hamantashen for the holiday — whether you decide to go with something new or the old classic. Or both.

Btw, if you need a good, classic dairy/shortbread version, here it is.

Here’s one for frozen dough hamantashen.

And in case you like prune-filled hamantashen, here’s my recipe for prune lekvar.

Classic, Dairy-free Hamantashen

• 1-3/4 cups all-purpose flour

• 1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar

• 1-1/2 teaspoons grated orange peel

• 1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 1/4 cup cold vegetable shortening, cut into chunks

• 3 tablespoons solid coconut oil

• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 1/3 cup orange juice

  Combine the flour, confectioners’ sugar, orange peel, baking powder and salt in a bowl. Add the shortening and coconut oil and work into the dry ingredients until the mixture is crumbly. Combine the vegetable oil and orange juice and pour into the flour mixture. Mix until a soft dough has formed. Cover and chill for at least one hour. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Roll the dough thin (about 1/8” inch thick). Cut out circles with a 3-inch cookie cutter. Place about 2 teaspoons of filling in the center of each circle. Fold the dough around the filling to form a triangle. Seal them edges tightly. Place the triangles on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 20-22 minutes or lightly tanned.

   Makes 16-18

Pan Roasted Chicken with Rice

We are about to celebrate Purim, a joyous, raucous holiday — this year it begins at sundown March 6, 2023.

Everyone will be feasting on hamantashen of course. And maybe other triangular shaped foods that imitate Haman’s hat. But Queen Esther was married to King Ahasuerus, a Persian, so a a traditional Purim Seudah (feast) could also include some delicious dishes from that part of the world.

Here is my recipe for Pan Roasted Chicken with Rice Stuffing, a dish inspired by the flavors of Persia. Of course it’s suitable any tine, but it is a festive, flavorful entree that’s perfect for Purim.

Pan Roasted Chicken with Rice Stuffing

Stuffing:

• 1 cup white rice

• 1-3/4 cups water

• 1 medium leek

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 cup diced winter squash

• 1 stalk celery, chopped

• 1 tart apple, peeled, cored and chopped

• 1 cup chopped dried chopped dates

• 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place the rice and water in a saucepan, bring to a boil over high heat and cook for one minute. Stir, turn the heat to lowest, cover the pan and cook for 18 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. Trim the leek, discarding the thick, fibrous green leaves, and chop the tender green and white portion into small pieces. Set aside. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the squash and cook, stirring often, until the pieces are lightly crispy, about 3 minutes. Add the chopped leek and celery and cook for 2 minutes or until they have softened slightly. Remove the pan from the heat, add the cooled rice, apple, dates, thyme and salt and pepper to taste. Mix thoroughly and set aside (reheat later or keep in a warm oven).

Chicken:

• 1 broiler-fryer chicken cut into 8 pieces (or use legs, breasts, etc.)

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

• 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

• 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice or 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Rinse and dry the chicken parts. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat and cook the chicken, turning pieces once, for about 8 minutes, or until the skin is lightly browned. Mix the salt, pepper, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and cayenne pepper and sprinkle over the chicken. Place the pan in the oven. Roast for about 15 minutes, or until chicken is cooked through (an instant-read thermometer should read 160°F). Spoon the stuffing onto a serving dish, top with chicken parts, drizzle the stuffing with any accumulated juices and serve.

Makes 4-6 servings.

Potato-Carrot-Curry Latkes

Potato latkes for Hanukkah? Of course!

But I make other kinds of latkes too.

This year it’s going to be these potato-carrot latkes. They have just enough curry powder to add an intriguing but not too spicy seasoning. I’ve made them several times already and they’ve been getting rave reviews. I’ll also serve some for my new year’s hors d’oeuvres fest.

The sauce is a bit tangy and very refreshing, sort of like tzadiki (cacik). It’s a soft, rich, smooth and tasty counterpoint for the crispy fried latkes.

Potato-Carrot-Curry Latkes with Yogurt Sauce

• 3 medium Russet type potatoes, peeled

• 4 medium carrots, peeled

• 1 large onion, cut into chunks

• 2 large eggs

• 1/4 cup potato starch, matzo meal or bread crumbs

• 1 teaspoon salt or to taste

• freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 2 teaspoons curry powder

• vegetable oil for frying

Yogurt Sauce

• 1 cup plain Greek yogurt

• 2-3 scallions, chopped

• 1/4 cup grated cucumber

• 2-3 teaspoons lemon juice

Shred the potatoes, carrots and onion in a food processor. Squeeze out as much of the liquid as possible (I put portions of the shreds in a kitchen towel and squeeze until they are practically dry). Place the shreds in a bowl. Immediately mix the eggs in (this helps keep the potatoes from browning). Add the potato starch, salt, pepper and curry powder. Heat about 1/4” vegetable oil in a heavy pan over medium-high heat. Shape latkes by hand, squeezing liquid out if there is any, and place them in the hot oil, leaving space between each one so that they brown well and become crispy (if they are too close they will “steam” and become soggy). Press down on the latkes to keep them evenly shaped. Fry for about 3 minutes per side or until the pancakes are golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels. Serve with the Yogurt Sauce.

To make the sauce, mix the yogurt, scallions, cucumber and lemon juice together until well mixed. Place in a serving bowl.

Makes 12-15