Osso Buco without Tomatoes

I love a cooking challenge. Whether it’s because a meal needs to be kosher or because someone is allergic to walnuts or doesn’t eat meat or hates potatoes, I am up for the task.

So, it was interesting for me to come up with this year’s new year’s menu when my cousins come. They will be houseguests for several days.

Our New Year’s eve day (which also includes my brother and sister-in-law) starts early and is all about hors d’oeuvres - groups of nibbles several hours apart. No actual “dinner.”

First up: almond crusted chicken nuggets, hot dog en croute, rumaki — maybe more.

Later: smoked salmon and avocado toasts, cheese gougeres, Romanian cheese turnovers, hummus.

and then dessert in the late evening. Probably Roasted Pears with Orange-Maple Sauce or Chocolate Pudding (in a pie crust). Or both.

There’s enough variety to assure everyone will be happy.

But in between days I need to consider food restrictions including: no tomatoes.

We all love Osso Buco, but classic recipes, including mine, are loaded with tomatoes. So I spent the last month making recipe after recipe — no tomatoes. All were absolutely delicious. I made versions with red wine or white, beef stock or chicken; some with a strip of lemon peel, some without, some with mushrooms.

This is the one I will be serving — note that I usually serve Osso Buco on top of mamaliga, but corn meal is also verboten, hence, the egg noodles.

Happy new year everyone.

Osso Buco (Sans tomatoes)

• 4 pieces veal shank

• 3-4 tablespoons all-purpose flour

• 6 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil, approximately

• 2 carrots, peeled and chopped

• 1-2 stalks celery, chopped

• 1 large onion, peeled and chopped

• 2 cloves garlic, chopped

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or rosemary

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1 strip lemon peel, about 2-inches long

• 1 cup red wine

• 1 cup beef stock

Coat each piece of veal with some flour. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in an ovenproof saute pan or casserole over medium heat. Cook the coated veal shanks for 6-7 minutes, or until lightly browned on each side. Add 1-2 tablespoons more oil as needed to prevent sticking. Remove the shanks to a dish and set aside. Add 2 more tablespoons olive oil to the pan. Add the carrots, celery and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes, or until lightly softened. Add the garlic and mix it in. Return the shanks to the pan and spoon the vegetables on top. Sprinkle with the parsley, thyme and salt and pepper to taste. Add the lemon peel. Pour in the wine and stock. Bring the liquid to a simmer. Cover the pan. Remove the casserole to the oven. Set the temperature to 325 degrees. Cook for about 1-1/2 to 2 hours or until the meat is soft. Serve the shanks with the pan fluids and vegetables.

Makes 4 servings

Veal Short Rib Stew

I love breast of veal and I also love short ribs, so when I saw these breast-of-veal short ribs in the store the other day I absolutely couldn’t resist. I braised them into a stew.

Why make stew now that fine weather is finally here after that cold, miserable, terribly snowy winter?

Because this one is light and satisfying without being too hearty. 

Besides, there are still those days when I am rushed for time and in need of a quick dinner that I can make ahead, freeze and reheat in the oven.

Like stew. Like tonight.

If you can’t find veal breast short ribs, ask the butcher to cut up a veal breast for you. Or, make this dish using the whole breast of veal.                                                                                                                                       

Veal Short Rib Stew                                                                                                            

• 3 pounds veal short ribs

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 medium onions, cut into chunks

• 4 medium carrots, peeled and cut into chunks

• 2 large all-purpose or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 2 large sprigs fresh thyme

• 1 cup white wine

• 3 medium tomatoes, cut into chunks

Wipe the surfaces of the meat and set them aside. Heat the olive oil in a large, deep saute pan over medium heat. Add the veal pieces and cook, turning them occasionally, until all sides are browned (about 10-12 minutes). Add the onions, carrots and potatoes to the pan. Sprinkle the ingredients with salt and pepper and place the thyme sprigs on top. Pour in the white wine. Bring the liquid to a boil. Cover the pan, turn the heat to low-medium and cook for one hour. Add the tomatoes, cover the pan and cook for another hour or until the meat is tender.

Makes 4 servings