Mushroom Chips

It doesn’t get easier than this: one of the hors d’oeuvre I’ll be serving on New Year’s Eve.

Mushroom chips

• 4 large king oyster mushrooms

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• kosher salt or sea salt

• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Slice the mushrooms about 1/8-inch thick. Place the mushrooms on a parchment lined baking sheet. Brush both sides with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and thyme. Roast for about 20 minutes, turning them over after the first 10 minutes.

Makes 4 servings

Spinach Pie

Every Hanukkah in our family, we retell the story of Judith, who played a major role in the Maccabees’ victory some 2000 years ago. According to the story, Judith visited Holofernes, a general in the enemy camp; he fell in love with her and asked her to dine with him.

During the meal Judith gave him great quantities of cheese, which made him very thirsty! To quench his thirst he drank so much wine that he fell asleep and Judith cut off his head with his own sword.

Thus was she able to get word to the Maccabees about the best time to strike.

Note: there are dozens of artworks depicting the event, including this well-known painting which hangs in the Uffizi gallery.

Since that fateful victory we have been making merry every year with an 8 day Hanukkah celebration.

Our celebrations are known to include latkes!

But did you know that the first “traditional” Hanukkah ingredient was cheese!

And that’s because of Judith.

Long ago it was Cheese Latkes that Jewish cooks prepared for Hanukkah.

But so many people couldn’t afford cheese so they substituted potato. Not bad, that.

Still. I always serve something made with cheese, every Hanukkah.

This year, how about this Cheese-loaded Spinach Pie to to remember the brave, intrepid Judith?

Cheese Loaded Spinach PIE

•  1 tablespoon butter

• 1/4 cup chopped red onion

• 6 ounces fresh spinach

• 1 partially baked 9-inch pie crust

• 3-4 ounces grated Swiss cheese

• 4 large eggs

• 2 cups half and half cream

• salt and pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Heat the butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, add the red onion and cook for 1-2 minutes to soften it slightly. Add the spinach and cook for another 2-3 minutes or until the spinach is completely wilted. If there is liquid in the pan, continue to cook until the spinach is dry (alternatively, place in a strainer and press out the excess liquid). Place the spinach inside the partially baked pie crust. Sprinkle the cheese on top. Beat the eggs and cream together with salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the ingredients in the pie crust. Bake for 40-45 minutes or until golden brown and set.

Makes 6-8 servings

Meatball Nosh

I had a little cranberry sauce and a bottle of chili sauce and a small amount of ground beef. Not enough to use for dinner, so I made a version of the Elegant but Easy Cookbook recipe for cocktail meatballs (Marion Burros and Lois Levine). I didn’t have the recipe in front of me but remembered it was little meatball cooked in a combo of grape jelly and chili sauce. The version I made was delicious and just enough for a nice little nosh for 2. I made a fraction of the recipe below.

Gonna make these for New Year’s, when we have hors d’oeuvres at different points during the day (no actual dinner).

Cocktail Meatballs: heat 1-1/2 cups cranberry sauce, 1-1/2 cups chili sauce, 1/4 cup orange juice and 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger in a saucepan. Stir to blend the ingredients. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat to low. In a bowl, mix 1 pound ground beef (or use turkey or veal) with 1 egg and enough breadcrumbs to bind the mixture well. Make 1-inch meatballs and place them in the sauce. Cook for 35-40 minutes, spooning the sauce over the meatballs occasionally and turning them to coat all sides.

Makes 8 servings

Asparagus Salad with Potatoes, Tomatoes and Feta Cheese

We’re big dairy eaters. And when the weather turns warmer, we’re big salad eaters too.

So this salad is perfect for us as summer approaches. I’ve made it a zillion times. Sometimes I substitute green beans or zucchini for the asparagus. Sometimes I use blue cheese (I’ve tried it with firm cheeses such as cheddar but prefer a soft, crumbly one). Sometimes I add leftover cooked fish, but mostly serve it as a side dish.

If you’re having a dairy meal for Shavuot, this would make a delicious first course or side dish. It’s filling, but light, so you have some room for cheese cake!

Asparagus Salad with Potatoes, Tomatoes and Feta Cheese

• 12 baby potatoes (such as Yukon Golds or Red Bliss)

• 1 bunch (about 12-16 ounces) asparagus, trimmed and cut into pieces about 2-inches long

• 1 cup cut up grape or cherry tomatoes (or chopped large tomato)

• 3 scallions, chopped or 1/3 cup chopped red onion

• 1/4 cup olive oil or avocado oil

• 2 tablespoons wine vinegar, approximately

• 1/2 cup crumbled feta, blue or goat cheese

• freshly ground black pepper to taste

• chopped parsley or chives

Place the potatoes in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat to medium and cook for about 15 minutes or until barely tender. Add the asparagus to the saucepan and cook for about 3 minutes. Drain the vegetables and cool them down under cold running water. Drain and place on paper towels to dry. Peel the potatoes and cut them into smaller pieces. Place the potatoes and asparagus in a mixing bowl. Add the tomatoes and scallion and toss the ingredients to distribute them evenly. Pour in the olive oil and toss the ingredients. Add the vinegar and toss again. Add the cheese and sprinkle to taste with pepper. Taste and add more vinegar if needed. Place in a serving bowl and sprinkle with parsley.

Makes 6 servings

Roasted Pineapple Salad with Avocado, Arugula and Greens

We eat salads throughout the year but have them much more often when the weather gets warm. Frequently I’ll toss together some greens, dress them with vinaigrette and it’s done.

But — in the summer, when the tomatoes are good, I’ll add one (or a few baby tomatoes).

If I have a ripe avocado, that gets thrown in.

Leftover veggies, occasionally.

Croutons, sometimes.

You get the picture right?

Salads are among the most versatile and flexible of recipes.

So, this week, when I went to prepare a salad for dinner I opened the fridge to find the remnants of a cut up pineapple. And I decided to use them in the place of croutons. Same look — cut-up cubes — but I roasted and caramelized the pieces (thanks to a bit of honey or maple syrup) and this addition of lightly sweet, roasted fruit, took the salad into a completely new, different and delicious direction. Sweet (pineapple), creamy (avocado), bitter (arugula) all in balance.

When we finished I realized that I could also have added a few roasted cashews.

Next time.

Roasted Pineapple Salad with Avocado, Arugula and Greens

• 2 cups cut up bite size pineapple chunks

• 1 tablespoon honey or maple syrup

• 2 cups packed cut up salad greens (about 3 ounces)

• 1 cup packed baby arugula (about 1-1/2 ounces)

• 1 peeled avocado, cut into bite size pieces

• 1/4 cup chopped red onion

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar

• Aleppo pepper or freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 475 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the pineapple on the baking sheet. Pour the honey or maple syrup over the fruit, toss and roast for about 20 minutes, turning the pieces once or twice, or until they are lightly browned. Remove from the oven and let cool. When cool, place in a bowl. Add the salad greens, arugula, avocado and red onion and toss the ingredients. Pour in the olive oil and toss the ingredients. Pour in the vinegar and toss. Season to taste with Aleppo pepper or freshly ground black pepper.

Makes 4-6 servings

Potato Pancakes for all occasions

Is there anyone who doesn’t like potato pancakes?

Can’t be!

I make all sorts of versions: Ashkenazi Jewish, Irish, Peruvian, German ….. and more. I make some with raw, shredded potatoes and some with cooked, mashed potatoes ….. and more.

I love all of them.

Recently I tinkered with one of my recipes for Irish mashed potato pancakes, basically combining it with another fabulous Irish mashed potato dish called Colcannon, which includes chopped cabbage or kale.

The result was these wonderful, crispy outside, meltingly tender inside Mashed Potato and Cabbage Pancakes.

I’ve made them with both cabbage and kale. I’ve coated them with panko, breadcrumbs and matzo meal.

They all work!

So — the recipe below, which is dairy-free and has a matzo meal crust, is a winner for St. Patrick’s Day, which is fun and gastronomically wonderful even if you’re not Irish, AND is a great side dish for Passover.

MASHED POTATO and Cabbage PANCAKES 

• 2 large all-purpose or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

• 1/2 to 3/4 cup chopped cabbage or kale

• 1 large egg

• 3 chopped fresh scallions

• 1/4 cup matzo meal (or bread crumbs)

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1/2 cup matzo meal, approximately (or use bread crumbs or panko)

• vegetable oil

Place the potatoes in a saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil over high heat. When the water begins to boil, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for about 12 minutes or until the potatoes are barely tender. Add the cabbage and cook for another 3-4 minutes. Drain and return the potato-cabbage mixture to the saucepan. Mash the vegetables with a fork or mashing tool. Stir in the egg, scallions and 1/4 cup matzo meal. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Make flat cakes, about 1/4-inch thick out of the potato mixture. Press each side of the cake into the remaining matzo meal, to coat each side. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Heat about 1/4-inch vegetable oil in a cast iron skillet or heavy, heat retaining sautepan over moderately high heat. Fry for about 3 minutes per side or until the pancakes are golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels.

Makes about 12

Airfried Fried Chicken vs. Traditional Fried Chicken

Airfried breaded chicken wings

Traditional fried breaded chicken wings

I’ve continued to experiment with my air fryer and have had great success, particularly with vegetables.

I don’t love it for everything and I’ve written about that (latkes were an absolute disaster). Also, you can only do a small amount in an air fryer, so whereas cooking for two can be a plus, for a family, not so much.

Recently I made breaded fried chicken wings again and tested it out on 6 people. I served one recipe of old fashioned fried chicken (fried in soybean oil), and one recipe of airfried chicken.

The score was 3-3! Half the people liked the regular, half liked the airfried!

And so my friends, here is the recipe I used for each: you choose!

Please note: this experiment was for breaded chicken. I have a different recipe and procedure for roasted and airfried UNbreaded chicken wings.

Fried BREADED Chicken Wings

• 12 chicken wings cut into sections

• 2/3 cup all purpose flour

• 3/4 teaspoon salt

• 3/4 teaspoon paprika

• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper

• vegetable shortening or vegetable oil

Wash and dry the chicken sections. Combine the flour, salt, paprika, garlic powder and black pepper in a large dish. Coat the chicken pieces with the flour mixture. If possible, let the pieces airdry for at least 15 minutes. Heat enough shortening or vegetable oil in a deep cast iron or heavy skillet to reach halfway up the sides of the chicken. When the temperature reaches about 365 degrees (hot enough to sizzle a bread crumb quickly), add a few chicken pieces at a time — do not crowd the pan. Cook over medium heat, turning pieces occasionally, for about 10 minutes or until all pieces are well browned and cooked through. Drain the chicken on paper towels. 

To make this in an airfryer, coat the chicken with the flour mixture as above, then spray lightly with vegetable oil spray. Preheat the airfryer to 400 degrees. Place the wing parts in a single layer in the airfryer. Cook for 8 minutes, turn the pieces and cook for about 8 minutes or until nicely browned and crispy.

Makes 4 servings

The Giving Table

Thanksgiving was just over but it feels like a zillion years ago because I’m already thinking about Hanukkah and even New Year’s weekend, when we always have our cousins over for several days.

That means: gifts and food.

One gift: Naomi Ross’ new kosher cookbook, The Giving Table (Menucha).

Food: several items from Naomi’s newly published cookbook.

My cousins come for several days, so there is ample opportunity to eat. On New Year’s Eve we always have hors d’oeuvres only, three different times during the day for meat, dairy and finally, smoked fish.

I made several of the recipes in the book and have already decided on several hors d’oeuvre for the meat-fest: Tamarind Glazed Meatballs, Korean Fusion BBQ Wings and Apricot Chicken Skewers. They were outstanding! And for one of the dairy hors d’oeuvre hour - definitely the Khachapuri. I’ve made that one a few times and it is too good to miss.

Before New Year’s Eve I am also going to try the Salmon Stuffed Avocadoes, 5 Spice Duck Breast Salad and the Lemon Ombre Trifles (with lemon curd AND lemon cream!!), for dessert because all sound fabulous.

But there is so much more to this book.

Great globally-influenced recipes, so far, yes, but more.

One of the most helpful aspects of the book are the QR codes in some of the chapters for some of the more intricate or could-be-confusing parts of a recipe. For example, I used a code for Khachapuri so I could watch a video to see how to roll and stuff the dough and then stir in the butter and egg (and also how to actually eat it).

I also used a code to see how Naomi braided a four (and six) strand challah – it was so helpful to see her do it not a zillion miles an hour like on Instagram or FB – but nice and slowly so you can actually see how it’s done.

Naomi is obviously a born teacher because there is so much information stuffed here and there and in between the recipes. Short essays that personalize the chapter to come. Notes from the Talmud. Food suggestions, recipes and information for special diets and special events such as visiting and providing food for the sick and elderly or for new mothers: chesed cooking.

There are tips on how to make meal prep easier, on tools and cooking equipment, what to do when you’re short on time, how to refresh food that’s cooked ahead.

She answers questions such as “what is a roux?” “What is risotto rice?” and gives suggestions for equivalents and substitutions.

There is also a chapter on cooking for a crowd (though the recipes can be cut down for a more usual number of people – like those Lemon Ombre Trifles that I plan to serve for dessert).

And more – an appendix chapter with advice on how to be good to yourself even though you are preparing food for others. That one made me smile because those of us who cook regularly, even those of us who absolutely love to prepare food for our families and friends, need someone to acknowledge the time, effort and sometimes the struggle it is for us to do it.

Thanks Naomi for hearing us.

Roasted Pepper Soup

Please don’t think I’m crazy but this year, instead of serving chicken soup for Rosh Hashanah, I’m making this Roasted Red Pepper soup.

First, it’s easy and I can make it a few days in advance. Also, it’s pretty enough for a festive holiday table and the colors match those of autumn, don’t you think?

Most of all, I’ve made this many times and always, always everyone wants seconds. It’s a taste winner.

ROASTED PEPPER SOUP

• 4 large bell peppers (red, orange and/or yellow)

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 5-6 scallions, chopped

• 1 large clove garlic, chopped

• 1 teaspoon chopped jalapeno, serrano or habanero chili pepper

• 2 carrots or parsnips, chopped

• 1 large all-purpose potato, peeled and chopped

• 4 cups vegetable stock

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

• 1 teaspoon salt or to taste

Preheat the broiler. Place the peppers under the broiler, about 4-6" away from the heat. Broil for 2-3 minutes, until the skin has blistered. Turn the peppers and repeat this process until the entire surface is blistered and lightly charred. Remove the peppers and wrap them in foil or place them in a paper bag. Let rest at least 10 minutes. Remove the peppers, peel off the skin and discard the stem and the seeds. Cut the peppers into pieces and set aside. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the scallion, garlic and chili pepper and cook briefly. Add the carrot and potato and cook, stirring occasionally for 3-4 minutes. Add the peppers, stock and basil. Season to taste with salt. Bring the mixture to a boil, lower the heat and cook at a simmer for 30 minutes. Puree in a food processor or blender.

Makes 6 servings

Meat Kreplach

Although it is an Ashkenazic tradition to eat filled kreplach on Simchat Torah, I don’t need any reason to eat kreplach. It’s one of my favorite foods of all time.

Meat Kreplach

dough:

• 2 cups all-purpose flour

• 3/4 teaspoon salt

• 3 large eggs, beaten

• 2-3 tablespoons cold water, approximately

• chicken soup or a saute pan and vegetable oil

Place the flour, salt and eggs in a food processor. Process, gradually adding just enough water for a ball of dough to form. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let rest for at least one hour. Roll the dough, a portion at a time, on a floured surface until the dough is very thin (less than 1/8-inch). Cut dough into 2-1/2 to 3-inch squares. Place one heaping teaspoon of filling in the center of each square. Fold the dough over the filling to make a triangle. Pinch the dough together to seal the edges (if necessary wet two edges of the square before folding). Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the kreplach about a dozen at a time, lower the heat to a simmer and cook for about 15 minutes, or until they are tender. To serve, place the cooked kreplach in chicken soup and cook for 4-5 minutes. You may also fry the kreplach (on one side until golden brown) in vegetable oil.

filling:

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped (optional)

• 12 ounces chopped, cooked beef

• 1 large egg

• 1 teaspoon paprika

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat the vegetable oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, for about 2-3 minutes, or until the vegetables have softened. Place the meat in a bowl. Add the softened onion (and garlic), egg, paprika and salt and pepper to taste. Mix thoroughly.