Cucumber Salad

My garden isn’t doing too well this year. I have some green tomatoes, the basil is thriving and I have a few almost-ready habanero peppers. But the eggplant plants died and, even though I had lots of zucchini, squash and pumpkin blossoms, I have ZERO fruit.

Also, all of the cucumber plants withered.

So, when I wanted to make cucumber salad for guests recently, I had to get a cuke from the supermarket.

The dish wasn’t as emotionally satisfying as when I make it with a freshly picked cucumber. But it was still delicious. Also — the dill IS from my garden. That plant is barely hanging on. I had enough for this and one other recipe.

Cucumber Salad

• 2 large cucumbers, peeled and thinly sliced

• 1 small vidalia or red onion, sliced

• 1/2 cup white wine vinegar

• 1/4 cup plain yogurt

• 2 tablespoons brown sugar

• 1 teaspoon salt

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh coriander or dill

• 4 dried red chili peppers, optional (or use a few drops of hot sauce)

Place the cucumber and onion slices in a bowl. Mix the wine vinegar, yogurt, brown sugar and salt together and pour the liquid over the vegetables. Sprinkle with the coriander or dill. If using chili peppers, break them in half, remove the seeds and scatter the pods over the cucumbers. Toss the ingredients and let marinate for at least one hour.  Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled. 

Makes 6-8 servings   

Osso Buco without Tomatoes

I love a cooking challenge. Whether it’s because a meal needs to be kosher or because someone is allergic to walnuts or doesn’t eat meat or hates potatoes, I am up for the task.

So, it was interesting for me to come up with this year’s new year’s menu when my cousins come. They will be houseguests for several days.

Our New Year’s eve day (which also includes my brother and sister-in-law) starts early and is all about hors d’oeuvres - groups of nibbles several hours apart. No actual “dinner.”

First up: almond crusted chicken nuggets, hot dog en croute, rumaki — maybe more.

Later: smoked salmon and avocado toasts, cheese gougeres, Romanian cheese turnovers, hummus.

and then dessert in the late evening. Probably Roasted Pears with Orange-Maple Sauce or Chocolate Pudding (in a pie crust). Or both.

There’s enough variety to assure everyone will be happy.

But in between days I need to consider food restrictions including: no tomatoes.

We all love Osso Buco, but classic recipes, including mine, are loaded with tomatoes. So I spent the last month making recipe after recipe — no tomatoes. All were absolutely delicious. I made versions with red wine or white, beef stock or chicken; some with a strip of lemon peel, some without, some with mushrooms.

This is the one I will be serving — note that I usually serve Osso Buco on top of mamaliga, but corn meal is also verboten, hence, the egg noodles.

Happy new year everyone.

Osso Buco (Sans tomatoes)

• 4 pieces veal shank

• 3-4 tablespoons all-purpose flour

• 6 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil, approximately

• 2 carrots, peeled and chopped

• 1-2 stalks celery, chopped

• 1 large onion, peeled and chopped

• 2 cloves garlic, chopped

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or rosemary

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1 strip lemon peel, about 2-inches long

• 1 cup red wine

• 1 cup beef stock

Coat each piece of veal with some flour. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in an ovenproof saute pan or casserole over medium heat. Cook the coated veal shanks for 6-7 minutes, or until lightly browned on each side. Add 1-2 tablespoons more oil as needed to prevent sticking. Remove the shanks to a dish and set aside. Add 2 more tablespoons olive oil to the pan. Add the carrots, celery and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes, or until lightly softened. Add the garlic and mix it in. Return the shanks to the pan and spoon the vegetables on top. Sprinkle with the parsley, thyme and salt and pepper to taste. Add the lemon peel. Pour in the wine and stock. Bring the liquid to a simmer. Cover the pan. Remove the casserole to the oven. Set the temperature to 325 degrees. Cook for about 1-1/2 to 2 hours or until the meat is soft. Serve the shanks with the pan fluids and vegetables.

Makes 4 servings

Roasted Squash with Orange and Ginger

We like a lot of veggie side dishes for Thanksgiving dinner. That means I have to cook most of them in advance because there’s no way I can fuss with multiple recipes at the last minute.

Here are some of the make-ahead dishes that we’ve loved with traditional roasted turkey:

Baked beans

Baked cranberries

Brussels Sprouts with Tangerine and Hazelnuts

Roasted Parsnips

Cornbread Stuffing

Roasted Beet and Winter Squash Salad

This is one of the dishes I’ll be serving this year. It’s easy, make-ahead, colorful and delicious:

ORANGE-AND-GINGER ROASTED SWEET POTATOES

• 1 medium butternut squash

• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or a mixture of vegetable oil and coconut oil

• 2 teaspoons grated fresh orange peel

• 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh ginger

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Place parchment paper on a large baking sheet. Cut the squash in half lengthwise, scoop the seeds and peel the outside. Slice the squash into 1/2-inch pieces. Place the vegetable oil, orange peel and ginger in a bowl. Add the squash slices and toss them around to coat all sides. Place the slices in a single layer on the parchment paper. Roast for 15 minutes. Turn the slices over. Roast for another 15 minutes or until tender and lightly crispy.

Makes 4 servings

Turkey Chili

Turkey Chili

When the weather starts to get cold I make hot, filling food. Like chili. I have lots of recipes because the basics are the same but the the recipe is so versatile that I can change it depending on my mood and on what ingredients I have.

For example:

1. the beans: red kidney, white cannelini, black beans are all fine — or any other. Dried and reconstituted or canned.

2. I usually choose ground turkey but you can use any ground meat (or chopped meat); best are: beef, veal or poultry. But you can make it meatless: try firm tofu or just use more beans, maybe two kinds.

3. make it spicier with chopped fresh chili pepper or less spicy with a mild chili powder

4. serve it with chips or mashed avocado (or sour cream for meatless)

Have it your way. It’s all good. Also — it lasts, so you can make it 2-3 days ahead and keep it in the fridge.

Note: a version of this recipe was originally published in The Jewish Week Food & Wine.

Turkey Chili

• 3 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 large onion, chopped

• 2 large cloves garlic, chopped

• 1 serrano (or other hot) pepper, deseeded and chopped, optional

• 16-20 ounces ground turkey

• 28 ounce can tomatoes, coarsely chopped, undrained

• 1/4 cup tomato paste

• 1/2 cup water or vegetable stock

• 2 teaspoons chili powder

• 2 teaspoons ground cumin

• 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 15-19 ounce can white beans, drained

Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and serrano pepper and cook briefly. Add the turkey and cook, stirring to break up the pieces, for 3-5 minutes, until the meat has turned color. Add the tomatoes with their juices, tomato paste, water, chili powder, cumin, oregano and salt and pepper to taste. Cover the pan and simmer for 1-1/2 hours. Stir in the beans. Cook uncovered for 30 minutes.

Makes 4 servings

Roasted Eggplant, Tomato and Mushroom Gratin

Because of allergies, we don’t have a traditional smoked-fish feast at our annual Yom Kippur break-the-fast. It’s always a vegetarian/dairy meal. I always make mujadarah, my friend Susan always brings her most fabulous kugel in the world and there’s always a salad — usually tomato, also egg salad.

The rest changes from time to time. Once I served spinach gnocchi. Often, spinach pie.

This year I am serving this Eggplant, Tomato and Mushroom Gratin. I’ve made it several times this summer because I planted eggplants and tomatoes in my garden and there was a bounty!

So, with the last of my crop — this wonderful dish. It’s perfect for the occasion. I can make it two days ahead. It’s suitable for any dairy meal but looks festive enough for the holiday.

Roasted Eggplant, Tomato, Mushroom Gratin

•  1 medium eggplant

• 4 tablespoons olive oil

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 2-3 tomatoes, sliced (or about 2 dozen cherry tomatoes cut in half)

• 4-6 ounces mushrooms, sliced

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 1 cup grated Mozzarella cheese

• 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese 

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Cut the eggplant into slices about 3/8- inch thick. Brush the slices lightly, using about 3-4 tablespoons of the olive oil. Place the slices on a baking sheet and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast for 16-18 minutes or until the eggplant is softened and slightly browned, turning the slices once. Reduce the oven heat to 375 degrees. Use any remaining olive oil to place a film of oil in a baking dish and place the eggplant slices in the baking dish. Cover with the tomato slices and mushrooms. Scatter the top with the basil, parsley, Mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses. Bake for about 25 minutes or until top is golden brown. 

Makes 4-6 servings

Eggplant Parmesan

When I need a meatless meal, Eggplant Parmesan is one of my traditional go-tos. It’s familiar, relatively easy to prepare and you can cook it in advance and freeze it for about a month. Best of all, it tastes really good.

I especially love this dish in the summer when my garden is in bloom with thick, fresh purple eggplants!

The recipe below lists one cup of marinara sauce. I make my own and freeze that too. But in a pinch, store-bought works too when you want to make things easier on yourself.

Another thing that’s easy -- and less caloric too -- I roast the eggplant slices instead of breading and frying them.

Eggplant Parmesan

• 1 medium to large eggplant

• salt

• 5 tablespoons olive oil, approximately

• 1 cup marinara sauce

• 15 ounces ricotta cheese

• 1/4 cup plus 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

• 1 large egg

• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano (or 3/4 teaspoon dried)

• 1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Slice the eggplant about 1/8-inch thick, sprinkle with salt and let rest for 20-30 minutes. Wipe the eggplant slices dry and place them on a baking sheet. Brush each side of each slice of eggplant with a film of olive oil. Roast the slices for about 15 minutes, turning them once, until they are softened and lightly browned. Remove the slices from the oven. Place 1/2 cup of the marinara sauce in a baking dish. Place 1/3 of the eggplant slices in top (overlap the slices slightly). Mix the ricotta cheese with 1/4 cup of the Parmesan cheese, the egg and oregano. Place half of this cheese mixture on top of the eggplant slices. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup of the shredded mozzarella cheese and 2 tablespoons of the Parmesan cheese. Add another layer of eggplant slices. Cover with the remaining ricotta cheese mixture. Spread with the remaining (1/2 cup) marinara sauce. Cover with the remaining eggplant slices. Sprinkle with the remaining (3/4 cup) mozzarella cheese and the remaining (1/4 cup) Parmesan cheese. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until the cheese has melted and is beginning to turn lightly brown.

Makes 4 servings

Salmon and Farro Salad

We’re big on main course salads in our family. They’re usually easy, unfussy and filling. I also like that I can make them in advance.

I’ve made  numerous versions of this particular salad: I love farro but have also used barley, couscous and wheatberries. I change up the cheese, depending on what I have, and use red onions or shallots if I need my scallions for something else.

Of course I have also made this all-veggie or no-meat, replacing the salmon (or any other cooked fish) with cooked eggs, carrots, peas and zucchini.

This is such a versatile dish! Best served at room temperature.

Salmon and Farro Salad

• 12 ounces fresh salmon*

• olive oil or vegetable oil

• 1 cup farro

• 2-1/2 cups water

• 1 ripe avocado, cut into bite size pieces

• 3/4 cup crumbled feta, goat or blue cheese

• 2-3 scallions, chopped

• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano

• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint

• 1/4 cup vegetable oil

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat a grill, broiler or grill pan. Brush the salmon with a film of vegetable oil and grill, broil or pan-broil for about 4 minutes per side or until cooked to desired consistency. Remove the fish from to a cutting board, cut into chunks and set aside to cool slightly. While the salmon is cooking, place the farro in a saucepan and cover with the water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat, cover the pan and simmer for about 25 minutes or until the grain is cooked but still slightly chewy. Drain any remaining liquid. Place the cooked farro into a mixing bowl. Add the fish, avocado, cheese, scallions, oregano and mint. Toss gently to distribute the ingredients evenly. In a small bowl mix the vegetable oil, lemon juice and white wine vinegar. Pour over the ingredients and toss. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Let rest for 10-15 minutes before serving.

*you can use drained, canned salmon

 Makes 4 servings

Roasted Potato Salad with Red Onions and Rosemary

If you’re getting out the grill to celebrate Lag BaOmer or because the warm weather is finally here or just because grilled food is so so good — have you decided about a side dish to go with those chicken legs or salmon steaks or hot dogs.

How about potato salad?

I make all sorts of potato salad, but because roasted potatoes are a classic food for Lag BaOmer, I went the extra step and roasted the potatoes for this version. The crispy edge added a really satisfying texture and the flavor was extra rich because the high heat caramelized the onions. I used a cast iron pan and suggest that for best results. Your oven is fine (instructions below) but if you have room for the pan on the grill — go for it and cook the entire feast outdoors.

This dish tastes best at room temperature, although my husband likes it hot, so, either way.

Roasted Potato Salad with Red Onions and Rosemary

• 2 pounds “new” waxy potatoes (such as Red Bliss or baby Yukon Golds)

• 1 small red onion, sliced

• 5 tablespoons olive oil

• 3 tablespoons lemon juice

• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. If you have a cast iron grill pan or frying pan, preheat it in the oven. Wash the potatoes and cook them in simmering water for 12-15 minutes or until tender. Peel the potatoes when they are cool enough to handle; cut them into bite size pieces and place them in a bowl with the onion slices. Pour 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over the vegetables, toss them to coat all sides and place them in the preheated pan (or use an ovenproof pan or baking sheet). Roast for 25-30 minutes, mixing 2-3 times, or until lightly browned and crispy. While the potatoes are cooking, mix the remaining olive oil, lemon juice and Dijon mustard in a large bowl. Add the roasted potatoes and onions when they are done. Add the parsley and rosemary. Toss the ingredients. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let rest for at least 15 minutes before serving. Serve still warm or at room temperature.

Makes 4-6 servings

Braised Short Ribs with Harissa

Yes, it’s March already! But it feels as if it’s been March for a year.

Doesn’t it?

Hasn’t it been?

Somehow this past year of endless March I’ve been less motivated and felt less creative. Or maybe it’s just that I feel safer, more comforted with the known, even when it comes to food.

So I’ve been less adventurous than usual with recipes.

And yet, the other day I went to prepare my tried-and-true recipe for short ribs and thought I’d do a little something different. Also, I had no tomato paste. I substituted ketchup and decided to jazz the dish up with some harissa.

What a difference! This dish is a wow! It might become the tried-and-true.

Braised Short Ribs with harissa

• 1/3 cup flour

• salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 1 teaspoon dried thyme (or a few sprigs of fresh thyme)

• 4 pounds bone-in short ribs

• 5-6 tablespoons olive oil

• 3 medium onions, cut into thick slices

• 4 carrots, cut into chunks

• 3 stalks celery, cut into chunks

• 2 cloves garlic, chopped

• 1/4 cup ketchup

• 2 teaspoons harissa paste

• 1-1/2 cups beef stock

• 1 cup red wine

• cooked noodles, rice or mashed potatoes, optional

Combine the flour, salt, pepper and thyme in a dish. Coat all surfaces of the short ribs with the flour mixture. Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the meat and cook, turning the pieces occasionally, for 8-10 minutes or until lightly crispy on all sides. Remove the meat and place the pieces in an oven casserole. Add the remaining olive oil to the pan. Add the onions, carrots, celery and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, for 5-6 minutes or until lightly crispy. Add the ketchup and harissa paste and stir them into the vegetables. Pour in the stock and wine, Stir and bring the liquid to a boil. Turn off the heat and pour the vegetables and liquid over the meat. Cover the casserole. Place in the oven. Turn the heat to 275 degrees. Cook for 3-4 hours or until the meat is very tender. Serve the meat with the vegetables and sauce by itself or over noodles, etc.

Makes 4 servings

Romanian Cheese Turnovers (Placinta cu Branza)

This has been a year like no other, but, in an effort to make New Year’s weekend somewhat normal (and with hopes that 2021 will be much better!), the cousins who always spend New Year’s with us have agreed to self-isolate, take Covid tests and so on, and if the tests are negative, they will come and stay with us for a few days!!!

I am so looking forward to that!

Our New Year’s Eve celebration is always an hors d’oeuvre fest. We start at about noon, have a few nibbles. A few hours later we have more nibbles and then at about 7:00-8:00 p.m. our final round. Dessert is much later, maybe 10:00 or 11:00 p.m.

We are doing the same thing this year. TRADITION!

The company and the food style will help us all feel … normal. If only for the long weekend.

I make some classics every year. Gougeres. Stuffed mushrooms. Matbucha. Chicken wings.

This year I am adding these mini-cheese turnovers. The filling is classic — my grandmother (my visiting cousin’s grandma as well) made a similar cheese mixture and wrapped it up in phyllo dough, as I also have many times. But puff pastry is easier to work with and every bit as delicious. We have eaten several of these as I worked to finalize the recipe. The New Year’s stash is safely stored away in my freezer.

Romanian Cheese TUrnovers (Placinta cu Branza)

• 1-1/4 cups crumbled feta cheese

• 1 7.5 ounce package farmer cheese (about one cup)(or use dry curd cottage cheese)

• 1/4 cup sour cream

• 1 large egg

• 2 medium scallions, finely chopped

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

• 2 sheets frozen puff pastry*

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the feta cheese, farmer cheese, sour cream, egg, scallion and dill in a mixing bowl and mix together until the mixture is uniform and the ingredients evenly distributed. Roll one sheet of the puff pastry into a 12”x 12” or 13”x13”square. Cut out 9 or 16 squares. Place equal amounts of cheese filling in the center of each. Wet two sides of each square lightly with some water. Fold the dry sides of the dough in half over the filling to meet the wet sides and to form triangles. Press the ends to seal the dough tightly. Press the edges with the tines of a fork to seal the sides completely. Place the pieces on the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling. Bake for 25-30 minutes or until golden brown.

Makes 18 or 32

*You can make this as strudel, using buttered phyllo leaves