comfort food

Turkey Bones Soup

Okay, okay, this is not gorgeous food.

But trust me, this is good soup. Good for the taste buds, good for the soul. And it’s a useful, delicious way to use the Thanksgiving turkey carcass.

Think of this as a special ugly duckling. I mean turkey.

Turkey bones Soup

  • turkey carcass, bones, etc, scraps

  • 2 carrots, peeled and sliced 1-inch thick

  • 2 stalks celery, peeled, leaves included if available, and sliced 1-inch thick

  • 1 medium onion, sliced

  • 1 parsnip, peeled and sliced 1-inch thick

  • 1 28-ounce can tomatoes plus the liquid

  • 10 cups water

  • salt and pepper

  • 2-3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

  • 1 cup short macaroni such as elbows

  • 1 cup frozen peas

Place the turkey pieces, carrots, celery, onion, parsnip and tomatoes in a soup pot. Cover with the water, add salt, pepper and dill and bring the liquid to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat. and simmer for 3-1/2 hours. Add the macaroni and peas and cook for another 15 minutes.

Makes 8-10 servings

Pot Pie

Is it too early to think about Thanksgiving?

Not for me. For the first time in a few years — Covid!!!! — I am finally having my old, usual crew for dinner. My family plus my brother and sister-in-law, their kids and one grand.

HURRAH!!!

So, I am already planning the menu and doing what I can ahead.

With all those people at the feast there may not be any leftover turkey this year. But just in case — I’ll use the meat for pot pie.

I make pot pie a lot because with only Ed and me for dinner most nights, there are leftovers all the time and pot pie is one of Ed’s favorites.

The recipe below is more or less the one I use. I change the herb, depending on what I have (I’ve used dill, basil, marjoram) and of course the veggies change depending on what’s also leftover or what’s in the fridge produce bin. You need about 3-4 cups of veggies plus the potato and onion.

Sometimes I make this without the meat — just add some more vegetables.

Thanksgiving leftovers? For sure. But why wait? This versatile recipe is an all-year handy one. Bonus: you can freeze pot pie to serve when you want to just pop something in the oven for dinner. Place the dough on top and freeze. Then, thaw and bake.

Pot Pie

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil

  • 1 medium onion, chopped

  • 1 medium Yukon Gold or other Eastern potato

  • 2 carrots, sliced 1/4-inch thick

  • 2 stalks celery, sliced 1/4-inch thick

  • 1 cup bite-size zucchini chunks

  • 1 cup corn kernels or peas

  • 3 cups bite-size chopped cooked chicken, turkey, beef or veal

  • 5 tablespoons all-purpose flour

  • 3 cups chicken stock

  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

  • 2 teaspoons chopped thyme leaves

  • salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  • pie dough or thawed frozen puff pastry sheets

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, for 2-3 minutes or until softened. Add the potato, carrots and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes. Add the zucchini, corn and chicken and stir to distribute the ingredients evenly. Sprinkle the flour over the ingredients and stir to mix it in completely. Cook for 1-2 minutes, stirring frequently to let the flour absorb into the other ingredients. Pour in the stock gradually, stirring constantly. Raise the heat and bring the liquid to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer the ingredients, stirring frequently, for about 10 minutes or until the sauce has thickened. Stir in the parsley and thyme and sprinkle to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the filling into a baking dish. Cover with the pie dough or puff pastry. Seal the edges to the dish. Cut 2-3 slits in the crust to allow steam to escape. Bake for about 35 minutes or until the crust is crispy and golden brown.

Makes 4 servings

 

Cranberry-Orange Baked Apples

I realize that Hallowe’en is big business. I’ve said it before — I don’t mind the business of costumes and fun but I don’t like the tons of candy that come with it.

I’ve also written about how it was back in the day — when I was a kid, when we did some minimal trick or treating and spent most of the evening playing games and bobbing for apples.

Before the fun and games my mother would give us dinner (typically macaroni and cheese with a buttered rice krispies crust) followed by either apple pie or baked apples.

My Dad always ended the festivities with a feast of hot chocolate.

To me, macaroni and cheese, baked apples and hot chocolate bring back happy memories and, to this day, I would prefer to enjoy the day the way it used to be for me.

Cranberry-Orange Baked Apples

  • 4 large baking apples

  • half a lemon

  • 1/2 cup dried cranberries

  • 2 teaspoons grated orange peel

  • 2 tablespoons cinnamon sugar (or plain sugar)

  • 1 tablespoon butter or solid coconut oil, cut into 4 pieces

  • 1 cup orange juice, apple juice or cider

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Wash the apples, then remove the core and seeds, leaving about 1/2-inch on the bottom. Peel the apples 1/2 of the way down from the stem end on top, then rub the cut surfaces with the cut side of the lemon. Put the apples in a baking dish. In a small bowl, mix the cranberries and orange peel and stuff this mixture into the apple hollows. Sprinkle the apples with the cinnamon sugar. Dot the tops with the butter or solid coconut oil. Bake the apples for 10 minutes then pour the juice over the apples. Continue to bake, basting occasionally with the pan juices, for about 35-40 minutes or until the apples are tender. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Makes 4 

 

Crusted Coffee Cake

We used to have a big gathering for break-the-fast. But this year there’s only about dozen us. Still, we’ll still feast on Mujadarah and Spinach Pie, egg salad, arugula salad, kugel and cheese. Hummus and marinated avocado. Zimsterne cookies.

Tradition.

This year I’m adding a simple dessert: coffee cake with a crusty-streusel top that reminds me of the Drakes cake I used to love when I was a kid.

Crusted Coffee Cake

Crust:

  • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

  • 1/2 cup brown sugar

  • 3/4 teaspoon cinnamon

  • 3 tablespoons butter, cut into chunks

  • 1 cup chopped almonds or hazelnuts

If using a food processor, place the flour, brown sugar, cinnamon and butter into the workbowl and process until crumbly. Add the nuts and process on pulse a few times until the nuts are smaller and well combined with the dry ingredients. If using a bowl, combine all the dry ingredients, mix, add the butter and work the butter into the dry ingredients with your fingers until the mixture looks crumbly. Set aside.

cake:

  • crust

  • 2/3 cup butter

  • 2 cups all-purpose flour

  • 1 teaspoon baking powder

  • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

  • 3/4 cup brown sugar

  • 2 large eggs

  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

  • 1 cup sour cream (or plain, Greek style yogurt)

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Lightly grease a 9” springform pan. Make the crust. Melt the butter and set it aside to cool. Combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt in a bowl and set aside. In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the cooled butter and brown sugar for 1-2 minutes or until smooth and well combined. Add the eggs and vanilla extract and beat for 1-2 minutes. Add the sour cream and beat for 2-3 minutes or until well blended and and light in color. Add the dry ingredients and beat for 1-2 minutes or until well blended. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan. Cover the top with the crust mixture. Bake for 60-70 minutes or until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Remove from the oven and let cool for 15 minutes. Remove the side of the springform pan.

Makes 8-12 servings

Puff Pastry Pizza Redux

My need for simple, meatless dinners post new years just happened to coincide with a freezer failure yesterday.

Fortunately I have a spare, old freezer where I quickly placed all the non-thawed meat and other freezables.

I threw a lot of stuff out. None spoiled, but some too old or freezer burned or no longer wanted.

Here’s how I used the puff pastry and some mozzarella cheese that had thawed: puff pastry pizza, which I’ve made many times. I had a bit of ricotta cheese so I included some. I also used thawed frozen spinach instead of basil.

FRESH TOMATO PUFF PASTRY PIZZA

  • 3 large or 4 medium tomatoes, sliced about 1/4-inch thick

  • salt

  • 1 sheet puff pastry, thawed

  • 1/2 cup ricotta cheese

  • 1-1/2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese

  • 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

  • 1/4 cup chopped spinach (or 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil)

  • 1 tablespoon olive oil

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the tomatoes slices on a board, sprinkle with salt and let rest for about 30 minutes. Wipe the slices dry. Roll the puff pastry slightly thinner on a floured surface. Place the pastry on the baking sheet. Spread the surface with the ricotta cheese leaving a small border along the edges. Place the tomato slices on top. Sprinkle with the mozzarella cheese and Parmesan cheese. Sprinkle with the spinach or basil. Drizzle with olive oil. Refrigerate for about 20 minutes. Bake for about 20 minutes or until golden brown.

Makes 6-8 servings


Turkey Chili

Turkey Chili

Turkey Chili

When the weather starts to get cold I make hot, filling food. Like chili. I have lots of recipes because the basics are the same but the the recipe is so versatile that I can change it depending on my mood and on what ingredients I have.

For example:

  1. the beans: red kidney, white cannelini, black beans are all fine — or any other. Dried and reconstituted or canned.

  2. I usually choose ground turkey but you can use any ground meat (or chopped meat); best are: beef, veal or poultry. But you can make it meatless: try firm tofu or just use more beans, maybe two kinds.

  3. make it spicier with chopped fresh chili pepper or less spicy with a mild chili powder

  4. serve it with chips or mashed avocado (or sour cream for meatless)

Have it your way. It’s all good. Also — it lasts, so you can make it 2-3 days ahead and keep it in the fridge.

Note: a version of this recipe was originally published in The Jewish Week Food & Wine.

Turkey Chili

  • 3 tablespoons olive oil

  • 1 large onion, chopped

  • 2 large cloves garlic, chopped

  • 1 serrano (or other hot) pepper, deseeded and chopped, optional

  • 16-20 ounces ground turkey

  • 28 ounce can tomatoes, coarsely chopped, undrained

  • 1/4 cup tomato paste

  • 1/2 cup water or vegetable stock

  • 2 teaspoons chili powder

  • 2 teaspoons ground cumin

  • 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

  • salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  • 15-19 ounce can white beans, drained

Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and serrano pepper and cook briefly. Add the turkey and cook, stirring to break up the pieces, for 3-5 minutes, until the meat has turned color. Add the tomatoes with their juices, tomato paste, water, chili powder, cumin, oregano and salt and pepper to taste. Cover the pan and simmer for 1-1/2 hours. Stir in the beans. Cook uncovered for 30 minutes.

Makes 4 servings

 

Meat Kreplach

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Although it is an Ashkenazic tradition to eat filled kreplach on Simchat Torah, I don’t need any reason to eat kreplach. It’s one of my favorite foods of all time.

Meat Kreplach

dough:

  • 2 cups all-purpose flour

  • 3/4 teaspoon salt

  • 3 large eggs, beaten

  • 2-3 tablespoons cold water, approximately

  • chicken soup or a saute pan and vegetable oil

Place the flour, salt and eggs in a food processor. Process, gradually adding just enough water for a ball of dough to form. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let rest for at least one hour. Roll the dough, a portion at a time, on a floured surface until the dough is very thin (less than 1/8-inch). Cut dough into 2-1/2 to 3-inch squares. Place one heaping teaspoon of filling in the center of each square. Fold the dough over the filling to make a triangle. Pinch the dough together to seal the edges (if necessary wet two edges of the square before folding). Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the kreplach about a dozen at a time, lower the heat to a simmer and cook for about 15 minutes, or until they are tender. To serve, place the cooked kreplach in chicken soup and cook for 4-5 minutes. You may also fry the kreplach (on one side until golden brown) in vegetable oil.

filling:

  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

  • 1 medium onion, chopped

  • 1 medium clove garlic, finely chopped (optional)

  • 12 ounces chopped, cooked beef

  • 1 large egg

  • 1 teaspoon paprika

  • salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Heat the vegetable oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, for about 2-3 minutes, or until the vegetables have softened. Place the meat in a bowl. Add the softened onion (and garlic), egg, paprika and salt and pepper to taste. Mix thoroughly.

Passover Shepherd's Pie with Matzo Crust

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I always try to make our Seder meals as festive as possible. Most years (sans pandemic) I roast a turkey and braise a big brisket. Lots of vegetable side dishes. Sometimes the second night is vegetarian. My grandma’s honey-soaked chremslach are a must. Ditto the Manischewitz concord grape wine (along with some lovelier selections).

But during the week — not so much. It’s regular meals. So, maybe meatloaf (with matzo meal substituting for bread crumbs). Or chicken cutlets crusted with coconut. Leftover turkey made into salad. Like that.

From time to time I make this “Shepherd’s Pie” — which really isn’t Shepherd’s Pie because there’s no potato crust. I include the potatoes in the meat mix and gave it a matzo crust. That crust is a crunchy, wonderful thing together with the softer, more tender inside ingredients.

Passover Shepherd’s Pie with Matzo Crust

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil

  • 1 medium onion, chopped

  • 1 large clove garlic, chopped

  • 2 carrots, peeled and chopped

  • 1 large Yukon Gold or other all-purpose potato, peeled and chopped

  • 1-1/2 pounds ground meat

  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  • 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, optional (or use 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme)(or use 1-2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley)

  • 2 tablespoons potato starch

  • 1 cup stock (beef, chicken or vegetable)

  • 2 matzot

  • 1 egg, beaten (or use olive oil)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Heat the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, carrots and potato and cook, stirring frequently, for 7-8 minutes, or until softened and beginning to brown. Add the meat, salt, pepper and thyme and continue to cook and stir, breaking up the meat into small pieces, for another 5-6 minutes or until the meat has cooked through. Add the potato starch and stir it into the meat mixture. Pour in the stock and cook, stirring, until the sauce has thickened (about one minute). Spoon the mixture into a rectangular baking dish. Soak the matzot briefly to soften them slightly, then place them on paper toweling and press any excess water from them. Place the soaked matzot on top of the meat. Brush the surface with the beaten egg. Bake for about 25 minutes or until the top is crispy and browned.

Makes 4-6 servings

Braised Short Ribs with Harissa

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Yes, it’s March already! But it feels as if it’s been March for a year.

Doesn’t it?

Hasn’t it been?

Somehow this past year of endless March I’ve been less motivated and felt less creative. Or maybe it’s just that I feel safer, more comforted with the known, even when it comes to food.

So I’ve been less adventurous than usual with recipes.

And yet, the other day I went to prepare my tried-and-true recipe for short ribs and thought I’d do a little something different. Also, I had no tomato paste. I substituted ketchup and decided to jazz the dish up with some harissa.

What a difference! This dish is a wow! It might become the tried-and-true.

Braised Short Ribs with harissa

  • 1/3 cup flour

  • salt and freshly ground black pepper

  • 1 teaspoon dried thyme (or a few sprigs of fresh thyme)

  • 4 pounds bone-in short ribs

  • 5-6 tablespoons olive oil

  • 3 medium onions, cut into thick slices

  • 4 carrots, cut into chunks

  • 3 stalks celery, cut into chunks

  • 2 cloves garlic, chopped

  • 1/4 cup ketchup

  • 2 teaspoons harissa paste

  • 1-1/2 cups beef stock

  • 1 cup red wine

  • cooked noodles, rice or mashed potatoes, optional

Combine the flour, salt, pepper and thyme in a dish. Coat all surfaces of the short ribs with the flour mixture. Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the meat and cook, turning the pieces occasionally, for 8-10 minutes or until lightly crispy on all sides. Remove the meat and place the pieces in an oven casserole. Add the remaining olive oil to the pan. Add the onions, carrots, celery and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, for 5-6 minutes or until lightly crispy. Add the ketchup and harissa paste and stir them into the vegetables. Pour in the stock and wine, Stir and bring the liquid to a boil. Turn off the heat and pour the vegetables and liquid over the meat. Cover the casserole. Place in the oven. Turn the heat to 275 degrees. Cook for 3-4 hours or until the meat is very tender. Serve the meat with the vegetables and sauce by itself or over noodles, etc.

Makes 4 servings

Braised Flanken, Just Like Grandma Used to Make

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We got over a foot of snow this week. That’s flanken weather. And I’m in the mood for plain old. No frills, no riffs.

This recipe is tried (many times) and true. No fuss, no bother. Good old fashioned eats. For cold weather. For comfort.

If you don’t have flanken, you can make the same recipe using “English cut” short ribs, large chunks of chuck or really any “stew” type beef.

Braised Flanken

  • all-purpose flour

  • salt, freshly ground black pepper, garlic salt and paprika

  • 6 pieces flanken

  • 4 tablespoons vegetable oil

  • 2 medium onions, sliced

  • 3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste

  • 4 large carrots, cut into chunks

  • 2 large all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

  • 2 cups red wine

  • 2-3 fresh thyme sprigs

Mix the flour with some salt, black pepper, garlic powder and paprika. Coat the meat with the flour mixture. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a saute pan over medium heat and cook on both sides for 5-6 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove the meat and set it aside on a plate. Pour the remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil into the pan. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes, or until softened. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Mix the tomato paste into the ingredients. Return the meat to the pan. Add the carrots and potatoes. Pour in the wine. Place the thyme sprigs on top. Turn the heat to low. Cook for about 3 hours or until the meat is soft and tender.

Makes 4-6 servings