A Sauce for the Season

Grilled Kebabs with Pebre Sauce

On Monday (May 27), we Americans will be celebrating Memorial Day, a federal holiday to honor those who died in military service of the country.

Memorial Day weekend is also the traditional time that ushers in “barbecue season.”

I mean, some of us barbecue all year but many of us (me!) don’t because it’s too cold before the end of May to venture outside to cook.

And so, to begin the season, I offer a recipe for Pebre Sauce. In case you haven’t heard of it, Pebre is similar to Chimichurri. It’s originally from Chile, but well known throughout South America. I included this recipe in my first kosher cookbook, Hip Kosher, and I’ve made this sauce every summer since that book was published in 2008.

Why?

Mostly because it’s so tasty. But also: you can use it for all sorts of grilled meat, poultry or chicken (in Hip Kosher I paired it with beef kebabs) and even for vegetables, grilled or otherwise. Or use it as a marinade. And you can mix in some mayonnaise or olive oil and vinegar to use as a salad dressing (particularly delicious for potato salad).

PEBRE SAUCE

• 1 cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

• 1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves

• 2 large garlic cloves, quartered

• 1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• 1 small habanero or serrano pepper, deseeded and chopped

• 1/2 cup olive oil

Process the parsley, cilantro, garlic, oregano, lemon juice and pepper in a food processor until they are finely chopped. With the machine still on, gradually pour in the olive oil.

Makes about 1/2 cup

Perfect Buttermilk Biscuits

Every once in a while I post a recipe that includes buttermilk and invariably someone tells me that they don’t want to buy it just for this one recipe. But really, I promise! — once you have buttermilk in the house, you’re going to use it again. Because it is SO SO wonderful for so many things like cold soups and cole slaw and most especially for baked goods.

Like these biscuits, baked especially because today is National Buttermilk Biscuit Day. In case you hadn’t heard.

BUTTERMILK BISCUITS

• 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour

• 1/2 cup cake flour (or 7 tablespoons all-purpose flour plus 1 tablespoon cornstarch)

• 2 teaspoons baking powder

• 3/4 teaspoon salt

• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda

• 2 teaspoons grated fresh lemon zest, optional

• 8 tablespoons cold butter

• 2/3 cup buttermilk

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Lightly grease a baking sheet or line it with parchment paper. Sift the flour, cake flour, baking powder, salt and baking soda into a bowl. Stir in the lemon zest, if used. Cut the butter into chunks and add it to the bowl. Work the butter into the flour mixture with your fingers or a pastry blender until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs (or use the pulse in a food processor). Pour in the buttermilk and mix until you can form a soft ball of dough. Try not to pound or overwork the dough (this makes the biscuits tough). Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and knead a couple of times. Roll or press the dough gently to 1/2-inch thickness. Cut out circles with a cookie cutter or the bottom of a drinking glass. Place the circles one inch apart (for darker biscuits) or close together (for fluffier biscuits) on the baking sheet. Bake for about 20 minutes or until they have risen and are lightly browned. Makes about 10 #biscuits #buttermilkbiscuits #buttermilkbiscuitsfromscratch #buttermilk #nationalbuttermilkbiscuitday

Strawberries Romanoff Shortcake

What would you do with these fabulous strawberries? Me? Just eat them as is. Because these days it’s almost impossible to find strawberries that actually taste like strawberries. Certainly not in a supermarket and even at a Farmer’s market it’s hit and miss. But, I’m thinking — it’s also nice to make something a bit special when you have berries this good. So maybe Strawberry Shortcake (using homemade biscuits - I posted a recipe a few days ago) and whipped cream (or sorbet) on top. But even better - Strawberry Shortcake with Strawberries Romanoff! Winner!

STRAWBERRIES ROMANOFF SHORTCAKE

• 2 pints strawberries

• 2 tablespoons sugar

• 1/4 cup orange flavored brandy

• 3 tablespoons orange juice

• 8 biscuits

• whipped cream or sorbet

Wash the berries and slice them into a bowl. Sprinkle with the sugar and pour in the brandy and orange juice. Toss the ingredients and let rest for at least one hour, tossing the ingredients occasionally. Cut the biscuits in half. Place the bottoms of each on dessert plates. Layer with equal amounts of berries and whipped cream. Cover with the biscuit tops. Makes 8 servings #strawberry #strawberries #strawberryshortcake #strawberriesromanoff

Roasted Asparagus with Zatar

When I was a kid, vegetables were always boiled (usually to death) and served with a pat of butter or margarine and it was no wonder that most people hated them.

We’ve learned a lot since then.

Whether you steam, poach or roast them, it’s incredibly easy to dress up any vegetable and make it a delicious side dish or even the star of your dinner.

Like this:

Roasted Asparagus with Zatar

• 1 pound medium-thick asparagus

• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 clove garlic, finely chopped, optional

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2 tablespoons lemon juice

• 1 teaspoon zatar

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Trim the ends of each asparagus spear. Rinse and dry the spears and place them on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle the olive oil on top and scatter the optional garlic on top. Roll the spears to coat each one. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Roast the asparagus for about 10-15 minutes or until tender. Drizzle with the lemon juice, sprinkle with zatar and serve.

NOTE: these are fine whether served hot or at room temperature.

Makes 4-6 servings

Green Goddess Goodness

Green Goddess Dressing ingredients

Don’t you just love a recipe that’s so accommodating and versatile you can change the ingredients and use it in all sorts of ways and it’s still basically the same delicious recipe?

Green Goddess Dressing is one of those.

This recipe was created in the 1920s for George Arliss, an actor who starred in a play called The Green Goddess. It’s basically a combo of pureed greens with some herbs, mayo and dairy sour cream included.

I add avocado in mine because it gives it a nice, rich texture.

If you need dairy free, you can use dairy-free sour cream, plain yogurt or milk in place of the sour cream. If you like the dressing thinner, just add some more milk (or dairy-free milk).

Here’s how useful this dressing is — it’s good on salad, of course! But you can also use it as a dip, sandwich spread, or as a marinade or sauce for fish, grilled steak or chicken.

Nice, right?

Of course right!

Green Goddess Dressing

• 1 cup packed baby spinach leaves (Bibb lettuce, arugula, kale)

• 1/2 cup packed fresh parsley tops

• 1/2 cup watercress (parsley, arugula, spinach)

• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives (scallion greens, shallot)

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon (basil, dill)

• 1 large clove garlic, coarsely cut

• 2-3 anchovy filets (or 1-1-1/2 teaspoons anchovy paste; 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce)

• 1/2 medium, ripe avocado

• 1/2 cup mayonnaise

• 1/4 cup dairy sour cream or plain, Greek-style yogurt

Place the greens, herbs, garlic, anchovies, avocado, mayonnaise and sour cream in a blender or food processor and process until well blended.

Makes 1-3/4 cups

Matzo Fattoush

It’s just a plain old salad. Refreshing and all. But add a few pieces of toasted matzo farfel and it transforms into a holiday treat. Fattoush. The word means “crumbled bread” in Arabic and of course, during the year you can use croutons and such. This is a special version, especially good for Passover.

MATZO FARFEL FATTOUSH

• 2 cups matzo farfel

• 6 tablespoons olive oil

• 3 cups shredded Romaine lettuce (6-8 large leaves)

• 2 medium tomatoes, chopped

• 1 medium cucumber, chopped

• 1 ripe avocado, peeled and chopped

• 1/2 medium red bell pepper, deseeded and chopped

• 2-3 scallions, chopped

• 1/2 cup chopped parsley

• 1/4 cup chopped mint

• 1/4 cup lemon juice

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the farfel on a baking sheet. Pour 2 tablespoons olive oil over the farfel and toss, coating all the pieces. Bake for about 15 minutes, tossing the farfel occasionally, or until it is lightly browned. Remove from the oven and let cool. Place the lettuce shreds, tomatoes, cucumber, avocado, bell pepper, scallions, parsley and mint in a bowl. Mix the remaining 4 tablespoons olive oil and the lemon juice together. Pour the dressing over the salad, sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste and toss the ingredients. Add the toasted farfel, toss again and let rest for a few minutes before serving. Makes 8 servings

Matzo Balls for Passover

The torch has been passed.

For the first time, after decades, I am not hosting Passover. One of my daughters is taking over (next year it will be my other daughter).

It feels weird, sad and thrilling all at the same time. Who knew that last year would be my last?

Everyone says “it’s good!” “it’s time!” And yet …. are we ever really quite ready? Those of us who never minded the preparation, the cooking, the utter exhaustion that leads to our remarkable celebration of Passover?

But I am not giving up completely! I am bringing food.

Of course.

My grandchildren, as grandchildren will do, have told their mother that only my matzo balls will do. And my stuffed cabbage and charoset. And that even when she uses my recipes, it is “not like grandma’s.”

Grand children are the absolute best. And I am so lucky to have my five.

Chag Pesach Sameach everyone. Shalom.

Here is the matzo ball recipe I use. The photo below shows the matzo balls I made yesterday.

MATZO BALLS

• 1 cup matzo meal

• 1 teaspoon salt

• freshly ground black or white pepper to taste

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh parsley or dill, or both, optional

• 4 whole large eggs, slightly beaten

• 1/4 cup melted goose fat, chicken fat, margarine or vegetable oil

• 1/4 cup chicken soup, water or seltzer

In a bowl. combine the matzo meal, salt, pepper and parsley or dill (or both). In another bowl, beat the eggs, melted fat and soup together. Add the egg mixture to the matzo mixture and blend thoroughly. Stir in the liquid. Cover the ingredients and refrigerate for about 30 minutes. Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. With wet cold hands shape the matzo mixture into 1-inch balls (you may have to re-wet hands occasionally). Add the matzo balls one by one to the boiling water. Lower the heat so that the water is at a simmer. Cover the pan and cook for at least 50 minutes (do not lift the cover) or until they are tender. Remove the matzo balls from the water. Place into the soup to soak up more flavor.

Makes 14-16

Stewed Dried Fruit Redux

I have a gastronomic fascination with stewed, dried fruit — what my grandmother called kumput (which she made with mostly prunes and sometimes dried apricots).

I’ve written a sort of love letter to this iconic, Ashkenazi Jewish dish.

I’ve played with the recipe and made several different versions.

I like them all.

The recipe below has become my favorite. The sweet white wine makes a difference for sure, and also the larger pieces of crystallized ginger (some of my recipes include chopped crystallized ginger).

This isn’t at all like my grandma’s version and yet I think of her every time I made any version of this recipe. She was the inspiration, after all.

STEWED DRIED FRUIT with GINGER

• 1-1/2 cups water 

• 1-1/2 cups sweet white wine

• 1 cup orange juice

• 1/4 cup maple syrup or honey

• 1 3” vanilla bean split open

• 1 2” piece cinnamon stick

• 8 whole cloves

• 6 cardamom pods, optional

• 1/4 cup crystallized ginger pieces

• 8 whole dried figs

• 8 pitted Medjool dates

• 1 cup cut up dried apricots, peaches or nectarines

• 10-12 prunes

• 1/2 cup raisins or dried cranberries or cherries

Place the water, wine, juice, maple syrup, vanilla bean, cinnamon stick, cloves and optional cardamom pods in a saucepan large enough to hold all the dried fruit. Bring to a boil over high heat. Turn the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the fruit and simmer another 20-25 minutes or until the fruit is soft. Let the fruit cool in the pan. Discard the cinnamon stick and vanilla bean. Let cool. Serve with the poaching liquid. 

Makes 8 servings

Matzo Polenta

Many years ago I decided to develop a Passover version of polenta — what my grandma called mamaliga — using matzo meal instead of corn meal.

The plain, version was beyond awful. My daughter said it tasted like a box.

But (never one to waste food) I mixed in some golden brown fried onions, celery and mushrooms, let the mixture chill inside a loaf pan, and when it was cold, I cut the loaf into slices and fried them until they were hot and crispy.

Perfection! A delicious side dish during Passover.

MATZO MEAL “POLENTA” CRISPS

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 medium onion, chopped

• 1 large stalk celery, chopped

• 2 cups chopped mushrooms

• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mixed herbs such as dill, basil, rosemary, thyme

• 2 cups vegetable or chicken stock

• 1 cup water

• 1 cup matzo meal

• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

• 1/2 cup grated Fontina cheese, optional

• vegetable oil and/or butter for frying

Lightly grease a 9”x5”x3” loaf pan. Heat the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3-4 minutes or until softened. Add the mushrooms, parsley and herbs and and cook for another 3-4 minutes or until all the liquid has evaporated from the pan. Set aside to cool slightly. Bring the stock and water to a boil in a large saucepan. Whisk constantly as you gradually add the matzo meal and cook for about 2-3 minutes or until the mixture is thick. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally for another 3-4 minutes or until the mixture is very thick. Stir in the vegetable mixture and season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix in the cheese of used. Spoon the mixture into the prepared loaf pan. Refrigerate until cold, at least one hour. Unmold the loaf onto a cutting board and cut into 3/4-inch slices. Heat the vegetable oil and/or butter in a saute pan over medium heat. Cook the slices a few at a time, for 2-4 minutes per side, or until crispy. Makes 6-8 servings

Grilled "Cheese," Tomato, Egg and Avocado Sandwich

A while ago I mentioned that I was given some vegan “cheese” by Never Better Foods and used it to make a kosher “cheese burger.” The product was excellent and I used it for several other dishes, bought some more and also bought some of the company’s “mozzarella,” which is also quite good (more on that some other day).

There’s a sandwich/panini that I love and have made many times, basically grilled cheese, but with other items such as roasted bell pepper, tomato slices, flat fried egg, avocado and the like.

Here’s the latest version — using the vegan “cheese” instead of dairy cheese. It was fabulous!

GRILLED CHEESE, EGG, ROASTED PEPPER AND AVOCADO SANDWICH

• 1/2 sweet red bell pepper, deseeded, optional

• 2 teaspoons butter

• 2 large eggs, beaten

• 1 ripe avocado

• A few drops of hot sauce, if desired

• 4 slices homestyle multigrain bread

• 3 ounces cheddar “cheese”

• 4-6 tomato slices

• 1 tablespoon butter

If including the bell pepper, preheat the oven to broil. Place the half pepper on a piece of foil and broil for about 5 minutes or until crispy and tender. Remove from the oven and wrap the foil around the pepper to enclose it. Let cool, then peel the pepper and set it aside. Melt the 2 teaspoons butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the eggs and cook until set. Dish out, cut in half and set aside. Mash the avocado, mixing in hot pepper sauce if desired. Spread equal amounts of the avocado on two of the bread slices. Top the avocado with equal amounts of cheese, tomato, egg and roasted pepper, if used. Cover with second piece of bread. Melt half the remaining tablespoon of butter in the sauté pan over low-medium heat. Place the sandwiches in the pan. Cover the pan and cook for 2-3 minutes or until the underside is crispy and the cheese is beginning to melt. Lift the sandwiches with a spatula and add the remaining butter to the pan. When the butter has melted, place the sandwiches back in the pan, uncooked side down. Weight down the sandwich with a heavy pan and cook for about 2 minutes or until second side is golden brown and the cheese has melted. (If you have a panini grill, even better!)

Makes 2 sandwiches